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Post by dave632 on Jan 15, 2024 15:55:30 GMT -7
Agreed, stronger magnets don't always mean faster/quicker. The stock Polymers are kind of weak. Would have to experiment to find the best setup.
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Post by pennywize619 on Jan 15, 2024 16:16:48 GMT -7
Gramps you're in!
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Post by swiftkart on Jan 15, 2024 16:37:49 GMT -7
They aren't too weak, I ran .53's at Sam's with the black/whites and no braid or shunts were allowed, car slowed way down with the stronger magnets.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 15, 2024 17:52:15 GMT -7
What I meant was weak when compared to other Polymers. As you say might be just right for some setups.
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Post by skillet on Jan 15, 2024 19:47:22 GMT -7
All the magnets out at some point we need to start a magnet chart or something from manufacturer...
We say ceramic as a grade. But to newer people, what does that mean...
Dash always gets people on those lvl 6 with a blue and white line. That's first step in next lvl from ceramic. I've seen green mamba in ceramic class... negative can't ride...if I'm understanding wrong I'd sure like to know. I'll slap those lvl 6 in fast lol
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Post by dave632 on Jan 16, 2024 9:23:02 GMT -7
I have one of those go-fast gauss meters. Readings for magnets are all over the place. Some of the best Ceramics are as good as the weaker Poly's. It would be hard to make a chart with all the magnets that are available now. One strange thing I have noticed it that most newer magnets, especially Poly's, show a huge difference when reading the inside, (armature side), and the outside of the magnet. Must be some different manufacturing process. Differences of 7-800 gauss show on the meter when reading inside and outside. Older magnets do not show those kinds of differences.
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Post by swiftkart on Jan 16, 2024 17:13:09 GMT -7
Dash lvl 6 gray white/blue stripe are polys, their old painted blue/white and current killer bee yellow/black are ceramic, all of the Mamba magnets are poly's just different strength lvls.
Ceramic grade polys are normally a lvl 4 and read about the same as a good ceramic, sometimes a hair better, but not always the case.
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Post by AJR on Jan 17, 2024 15:12:55 GMT -7
If memory serves me correctly Dave, didn't you have a couple of red DR-1 cars that ran well here at Bear Creek. I believe you Qualified #1 and #2. I remember them because we ran them then against all of the other chassis at that time. Jag has improved parts of their design since the first chassis were introduced but I have never understood the traction magnet part of it. It is not hard to make a couple of cuts on the chassis and the magnets are then completely adjustable up and down in the hole they are in. Your memory is better than mine. I found one of those cars which had the dropped magnets, it still runs good and will probably be a contender. I sold the other one. Not a big deal to drop the magnets. The stock magnets are so far above the track with large tires that the downforce was minimal, this kills performance. The other weak spot is the brush holders as has been previously mentioned. I had to glue mine in as they were spinning like a top which messed with the brushes. The rear armature bearing holder is another weak spot, more glue needed. Didn't say they could not be made to run with mods Jeff, but out of the box they are poor when compared to a top-notch chassis like a Tomy Super G+. Yes Sir this was back when they first came out and we were trying to see how fast they could go. We knew the magnets were too far away from the track to be competitive. You named off all of the weak spots. The more power we made the more axles and armatures started popping out. Those two cars were impressive! I just ordered a new chassis and will be able to see if they have improved those areas. I would think they would have by now. |
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Post by dave632 on Jan 17, 2024 16:09:14 GMT -7
Sorry, but they are the same now, no improvement that I can see.
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Post by pennywize619 on Jan 17, 2024 19:00:54 GMT -7
Comet you're in!
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Post by finistauri on Jan 17, 2024 22:17:15 GMT -7
Hey Fellow Racmate's are your Rails looking like these 🤪
Fin
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Post by skillet on Jan 17, 2024 23:31:18 GMT -7
I did notice the new chassis are solid in front of the brush barrel. The others I have , there is a notch in front...
I don't think making it solid fix the brush barrel finger problem. I got the adjustable brush barrels for the dr1 for our cars, now I'm looking at the wizzard type I like the head on the outside of the chassis. You have to shim them or sand them down to fit.
Some car bodies probably won't work with it though.
Autoworld super lll wire clips fit the dr1, we could use those to hold armature bushing.
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Post by ecbill on Jan 18, 2024 6:39:02 GMT -7
I did notice the new chassis are solid in front of the brush barrel. The others I have , there is a notch in front... I don't think making it solid fix the brush barrel finger problem. I got the adjustable brush barrels for the dr1 for our cars, now I'm looking at the wizzard type I like the head on the outside of the chassis. You have to shim them or sand them down to fit. Some car bodies probably won't work with it though. Autoworld super lll wire clips fit the dr1, we could use those to hold armature bushing. Good info on the Super III clips. Didn’t you have a post a while back about using Super III pick up springs on DR1s? Maybe the Super III is good for something?😎 |
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