|
Post by ecbill on Jan 7, 2021 20:30:00 GMT -7
Well, it looks like its time to send the bazooka crew on a mission, since they're not going to GTS. Thinking of sending them to extract a shipment from Jag's with some new WizJet chassis', tools and assorted parts, that's been held hostage by the postage system, in Akron, OH since Dec. 21. Perhaps Sam's man might like to participate. We'll have to scrub the mission. The package showed up today.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Jan 6, 2021 9:43:26 GMT -7
First 2 "Studezilla" bodies out of the mold .
Got tired of workin' on it so I went with a 4-gear medium wheelbase. If someone was ambitious, it wouldn't be that hard to fit it to a viper or similar chassis. Besides, I got product to use up and gotta put the move on . Been wanting to do a salt flats Stude. Look like a good candidate.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Jan 5, 2021 16:50:08 GMT -7
Well, it looks like its time to send the bazooka crew on a mission, since they're not going to GTS. Thinking of sending them to extract a shipment from Jag's with some new WizJet chassis', tools and assorted parts, that's been held hostage by the postage system, in Akron, OH since Dec. 21.
Perhaps Sam's man might like to participate.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Jan 5, 2021 15:56:00 GMT -7
News flash! WD 40 does a good job of removing the sticky residue with minimal damage to the paint. Used a Q-tip to apply and just got a faint red stain from the flames.
It just came to me the other night that we used to use WD40 to remove the residue from contact paper in our cabinets in military housing. Stuff had to be removed when you moved out.
Thought you guys might like to know.
Of course it requires a thorough scrubbing before recoating. Blue Dawn did well.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Jan 3, 2021 11:13:10 GMT -7
Nice job Rick, what are you using to cut and measure the teeth? Dave to answer your question here is how I'm doing it so far in my Okie Machine Shop Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr This is my $100 mini lathe I use to turn the rod down and hog out the center area. Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr This is the dividing head I got off ebay that if you do the math right it will cut the teeth evenly spaced. Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr This is the 60 degree double cutter that I found because I couldn't find a 60 pitch gear cutting set anywhere. I have a metric gear cutting set ordered from China but don't know if it's going to be small enough ? Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Then I put it back in the lathe to cut the back side. Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr These are the measurements I come up with so far. I'm trying to keep it around .090 thick which gives you room to shim, and around .320 diameter and maybe see if I can go a little bigger later ? If I don't GOOF it takes about a hour from start to finish. There about .003 to .006 out of round because of my lathe, but the little testing I've done seems to be ok ? More testing is needed. Rick, This stuff is pretty fascinating. You mention a dividing head, and the cutter you are using looks like its divided into segments. Does it rotate in a vertical axis while the blank rotates in the horizontal axis, cutting out the teeth with the appropriate spacing? Picturing it working kinda like the old fighter plane machine guns, that would fire through the rotating prop without shooting up the prop blades. Bill
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Jan 1, 2021 13:38:48 GMT -7
I do not see any problem with using the Dash or Wiz jet chassis as they seem to be exact copies of the original. I think the Dash chassis has a different ohm rating, 4 ohms??, on its armature so I would check that if you are using one of them. Dash sells chassis with arms of varied ohm ratings. Some that I am aware of include: 16, 14, 10 and a 4 lam that Dash calls 5 ohm but every one seen so far have been in the 3.7 to 4 ohm range. There may also be a 2 or 3 lam “5” ohm and a 17+. Always a good idea to take an ohm meter to the arm. You know what they say about assuming. Wish that they were color coded.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 31, 2020 19:15:49 GMT -7
A blessed New Year to all of the Nitro Slots gang! So long 2020! Looking forward to lots of good racing.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 31, 2020 19:12:08 GMT -7
Thanks guys! When do you apply vacuum?
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 31, 2020 15:27:29 GMT -7
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 29, 2020 17:56:21 GMT -7
Just thinking the other day how cherished the Auto World catalog was for me as a kid. Slot cars, Hop Up parts, model car kits, hobby tools. Man, it was right up there with the Sears Christmas catalog, maybe even more.
Sorry to hear the founder of the Polish Racing Association has passed.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 28, 2020 15:51:28 GMT -7
Here's a cut & shop project I've been working on... Took a resin cast 56, cut the nose and rear off and applied em to a 57 Nomad body... Since Vince brought this thread back to life, I thought I would comment on this custom. I've raced a couple of cars that were the results of this project. It really cool to see how the creation came about. Thanks for sharing the work in progress.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 28, 2020 15:45:34 GMT -7
Thanks guys for the good words... Here's a 55 ya might like...RM Like the way you molded in the Nomad style rear fender openings! That was supposedly a popular mod on the 55s back in the day.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 28, 2020 10:29:51 GMT -7
Thanks guys. Wasn’t sure if I would cast it with the bumper/ grill installed or separate. Will use the grill from the original yellow Afx. Not as clunky as the JL. Have 2 choices for hoods. Will probably use this one rather than cast separately. Will have to fill the seams a little better.
Randy, thanks for the tip on the paper clip roll bar. I would like to try to cast some roll bars to use when converting stock hardtops. Yep, filled the dimple and roll bar holes. Customs will use a different type of roll bar.
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 27, 2020 19:48:56 GMT -7
|
|
|
Post by ecbill on Dec 27, 2020 12:39:37 GMT -7
I had some time yesterday to goof around with some new toys I've been collecting for awhile to attempt on making us some crown gears for our hopped-up pancakes. I'm not a machinist don't pretend to be and have no idea on what I'm doing and any input would be appreciated. I'm learning on the fly while I'm going. This is my first try at machining a 15 tooth crown out of brass. except I did the math wrong and it turned out a 16 tooth. It needs a shoulder for more surface area on the axle. For the t-jet will be easy on the backside of the gear the 4G needs to be on the inside or the tooth side of the gear which for my machining skills might take some trial and error to figure out . I tested it on a t-jet Gasser chassis I had just to see how it meshed ? And it seemed to mesh pretty good. It actually performed better than the gear I had in it. Now that I think I will be able to make some crown rears I'm going to order some silicone bronze material. I also picked up some 20 tooth brass pinion wire for the top cluster gear and idler. Thank You Jeff for hooking me up with the pinion wire source. And I found a aluminum 60 pitch 26 tooth gear that I'm going to try to make work for the big idle gear on the 4G. I also found one in carbon fiber, I couldn't find 26 tooth in brass pinion wire in 60 pitch. So here are some pictures of what I've did so far. Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr You mentioned 60 pitch gears. So that's the correct pitch of the top gears and pinion?
|
|