damo
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Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Mar 17, 2014 11:39:47 GMT -7
Hi All,
I put together a drag strip for an event at out local school fundraiser last week. I was building a wooden routed track although it wasn't ready on time so I used some plastic track and a Slot Dragon unit and it went really well. Lots of kids had a go and they competed for a Slotcar set which we gave to the fastest driver. I put together a few bits of video here:
I'm sure we'll do it again next year too!
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
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Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Feb 28, 2014 0:44:23 GMT -7
I had read that article (on HOslotracing.com) once before and it sounded good but when I tried to test the rebar wire it just wasn't flat and seemed too hard to get right. Maybe my problem was that the router bit is 1/16 (1.58mm) yet the wire measures 1.5mm. It isn't tight in the slot. I did try laying sellotape over the slot and then rolling in the wire (with a roller) and it was firmer but still had the odd wave in it. I have ordered 2 metres of magna braid so early next week I'll do a trial with that and I think I'll have to go that way. Unfortunately it's much more expensive than rebar wire! Over the weekend though I'll try the 'tension & twang' method as described earlier in this thread just to see how that goes. I'll also see how the laying out method works. Looks like I won't be getting the lawms mowed this weekend after all!
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Feb 27, 2014 15:35:46 GMT -7
Thanks nosubfor3, I did try hanging a weight from the wire to straighten it but it wasn't that successful.
Anyone tried magna-braid? It'd be easy to lay, looks good and still have the magnetic effect.
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
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Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Feb 26, 2014 15:21:04 GMT -7
Great post Ninjatek and great diagrams! I did find some fish tape here in NZ but based on your post I am going to try Rebar wire. I'm going to have the rail slots routed to a depth that'll leave the rebar wire just ever so slightly above the surface and I'll glue it in. I'll lay copper over The top. Doing it this way I can cut the Rebar wire off neatly flush with the end of each MDF board so there is no raised lump there. I have just done a test and it looks like it'll work out well. I'd prefer not to have the shining copper look but performance and ease of manufacture is more important right now.
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Feb 26, 2014 10:59:20 GMT -7
Hi Guys,
I did consider routing the slot for the rebar wire deep enough to keep it flush with the track surface, glueing it in and then laying copper tape over top. This way I could just chop the wire off neatly at each end. Since then I have searched and searched and discovered the term 'Fish Tape'. So I looked into that and it seems like a much easier option and may give a neater finish. Also would have more depth to glue into slot for a decent hold. I wonder though if it would be too much magnetic force being a larger amount of metal? Anyway, I'm going to see if I can get some here in NZ to try. There was plenty available online overseas but I am getting too close to my deadline to wait so I hope I can get some here in NZ that's the right size.
Anyone used Fish Tape?
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Feb 25, 2014 20:55:01 GMT -7
HI All,
I have a test piece of MDF routed for me to try and set some rebar wire into. All looks good but when I try to get the wire into the slots, it isn't especially smooth and even. As I measure in different places, the height of the wire above the surface isn't always perfect. It tends to vary towards the ends of the MDF where it has to bend around the corner. I placed some copper tape next to a slot however and that was easy!
So here I have a few questions, please someone offer me some advice here:
Do I need the magnetic effect with a drag strip or can I use Copper tape and do without it? With copper would I need a much larger shutdown area? Is there a good trick to getting the Rebar wire sitting well? What sort of glue do you use to get the Rebar wire to hold into the slot?
Any help will be much appreciated. I need to get this all up and running for an event coming up in just a few weeks.
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Jan 21, 2014 23:18:59 GMT -7
Hi all,
I am setting up a drag strip for promotional purposes and I want to buy a bunch of cars which are already tuned or modified so that they run smoothly, reliably and of similar speed. I am not sure how many but maybe that'd depend on the price. I'm open to any suggestions. Either PM me or email pics to damien@slotcar.co.nz
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 28, 2013 23:39:38 GMT -7
OK, those articles are immense! Really amazing info but it's going to take some time to go through it all properly. Thanks so much guys!
Damo
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 28, 2013 22:15:51 GMT -7
Ok, so it was obvious! Sorry guys, I'm usually a bit sharper than that, honest! I'll go and get reading.
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 28, 2013 15:53:36 GMT -7
I don't have a blue bar or directory on my page. I have 'NTRA Events' and there is a bit of space to the right of that but no archives.
Can anyone post a link please?
Damo
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 28, 2013 12:34:15 GMT -7
Thanks for the tip, only, I can't find the archives! It just doesn't seem to be on the page at all. CAn someone send a link please?
Cheers, Damo
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 27, 2013 23:23:26 GMT -7
Hi All,
I am new to HO drags racing. I have spent most of my slot car time on 1/32 digital. Recently though I bought an HO set with 4 gear drag cars. One was going fine until I held the rear tyres up of the track to warm the engine to see if it made any improvements. As I was doing this I noticeably heard the revs drop and they wouldn't go any higher than mid range after that. The car was slow where it had been quick before. So I changed the brushes (not knowing what else to try) and it is fast again.
What would have happened?
Also, I bought an XTraction car which was going really well straight out of the box and keeping pace with my fastest (all non modified) 4 gear Mustang. It did about 15 runs and now it is also slow. Not super slow like the car mentioned previously but instead of matching the Mustang's pace it finishes about 10 inches behind every time.
Is this normal? Do you have to replace brushes constantly? Is there some simple maintenance that will help? I know people speak of lubricating the armature and I presume they mean where it's shaft fits at each end but is there something that will keep the brushes alive? What would cause an instant drop in performance like this?
Any help, much appreciated!
Cheers, Damo.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 24, 2013 11:57:33 GMT -7
Hi,
Thanks for your response. I had looked at Trackmate but it seemed so expensive, not anything like the prices you mentioned. I'll have to look again and look more carefully!
Cheers, Damo
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 22, 2013 23:40:26 GMT -7
That's a cool video, I like it.
Does anyone have a system to suggest that could offer both styles of start? I am going to use this track for an event to promote our slotcar business and people will be getting just a few runs with the winner taking a prize at the end. I will need the easiest system possible for people having just those 3 tries. Does anyone have a good idea about a timing system that would be able to do this? I can't use the AW system of course because there is no timing.
Cheers, Damien.
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damo
Super Stock
Posts: 16
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Post by damo on Oct 22, 2013 20:42:02 GMT -7
I'm in Ohope Dave, Bay of Plenty. How do you find the Slot Dragon with people who have never used it before?
Cheers, Damo.
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