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Post by SKR on Apr 15, 2011 17:41:47 GMT -7
reed switches work great! and you don't have to woory about any lighting issues. Let us know how it works for you.
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Post by 440gtx on Apr 15, 2011 17:53:12 GMT -7
I have found in the past that reed switches glued under plastic track will still trip, even with weaker t-jet magnets. I used a hot glue gun to attach them to the track. I used reed switches on my first road course 17 years ago. A guy that I worked with wrote a timing program for me in basic. It had some limitations so I bought a trackmate program and switched to the photoeyes that came with it.
Matt
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Post by SKR on Apr 15, 2011 18:00:17 GMT -7
good tip Matt. We use to use them on our road courses back in the late 80's early 90's. We didn't try gluing them, that would eliminate the ugly cut and will provide a smooth surface for wheelie bars. Also, it is good to know that they will still pick up tjet magnets.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 23, 2011 11:26:15 GMT -7
Well I got my reed switches. It is all wired correctly put them under the track without cutting slots. It will trip timer to start but at the other end will not shut off. So I will cut slots and see what happens. Oh, if you push the car over switch it starts pick it up and go to other end and push it across finish line stops. I hope slots and exposing the reed switches does the trick.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 23, 2011 11:27:12 GMT -7
Well I got my reed switches. It is all wired correctly put them under the track without cutting slots. It will trip timer to start but at the other end will not shut off. So I will cut slots and see what happens. Oh, if you push the car over switch it starts pick it up and go to other end and push it across finish line stops. I hope slots and exposing the reed switches does the trick.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 23, 2011 13:29:20 GMT -7
Well the slot does help it at least work sometimes. The times are all over the place with a 4 gear .596, .696, .545, .526, .596 all at 22.8 volts. It does not work very well at 13.8 for times, go figure.
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Post by SKR on Apr 23, 2011 14:14:33 GMT -7
Are you using anything to keep the reed switch in place so that it doesn't move? something like tape or shoe goo will keep it in place. Not sure what you mean by not working very well at 13.8 volts. Do you mean the car or the timer?
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 23, 2011 16:01:00 GMT -7
The reed switchs are taped in right now. I plan to move them flush with track. The start they under track no slot work fine at the finish I had to cut a slot and tape in place. The 13.8 volts is the timer does not work as well. When you cross finish it does not shut off. That is exactly opposite of what I thought would happen. My track is 1000ft scale (15ft 7 1/2") what kind of times would be competitive.
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Post by SKR on Apr 23, 2011 18:46:46 GMT -7
that is weird. Are you sure the finish line sensor is the one that is causing problems? I was just thinking that maybe the start wasn't triggering and the finish line was. Anyway, let us know what you find. This is good info for others wanting to install one of these systems.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 24, 2011 11:37:07 GMT -7
Found the problem with reed switchs. When I pulled them out and set them down I heard the stopwatch start. I picked it up and it stopped. So I moved it left and right start, stop, start, stop, bad reed switch. Two of the four I ordered were bad. So back to the photo cell since I have 10 of those. I put sensors back in track. I covered sensor with nose of car turned on light. I went to finish line sensor turned on light timer started. Time to take a break.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 24, 2011 19:51:52 GMT -7
I could not get the photo cells to work. I put the two reed switchs back in and got time on about ever second run. This time 1.502, 1.496, 1.526, that was at 13.8 volts. These times are with stock tires no tweaking yet just clean parts. The previous times at 22.8 volts cann't be right. When I ran a faster car a Tomy Turbo, the reed switchs do not work at all.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2011 20:22:53 GMT -7
I really haven't been following this thread much. But I do know there are two differant types of reed switches. One that is an open circut and one that is closed. When the car passes by they close or open respectively. I would think on the set-up you guys are creating which one you use would make a difference. I could not get the photo cells to work. I put the two reed switchs back in and got time on about ever second run. This time 1.502, 1.496, 1.526, that was at 13.8 volts. These times are with stock tires no tweaking yet just clean parts. The previous times at 22.8 volts cann't be right. When I ran a faster car a Tomy Turbo, the reed switchs do not work at all. |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 25, 2011 16:25:54 GMT -7
The photo sensors I bought all start as soon as light hits it. Shouldn't it be just the opposite? When the light beam is broken timmer should start and at finish when the car breaks that beam it should stop correct?
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Post by Eagle Racing on May 6, 2011 18:17:35 GMT -7
Well did not get an answer to the photo sensor question, so time to move on. I have received some more reed swithchs and I will go with them as they worked the best for me. At least I get some times to help me dial in my cars. To all that helped I thank you.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Jun 14, 2011 19:30:01 GMT -7
Still working on perfecting this timing system. I bought a small roll of shielded wire. Maybe the emf noise is causing my timers to freak out. Wire did not cost that much so well worth a try.
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