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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 26, 2014 7:45:21 GMT -7
The gear plate is now finished. The whole design is centered around making it adjustable for the new bronze gears. I wanted to be able to change gears quickly and that includes the cluster gear.
The picture shows my N/TF chassis with adjustable traction magnets. The gear plate is apart so you can see the parts. The brass cover plate has two large holes connected to a slot. The brass shafts have slots in then to slide up and down this slot. Pull out the shaft put on another gear and slide it back in the slot and you are ready to go. On the right the cluster gear can be seen. As you can see it has a upper and lower protruding shaft. Drop in the cluster gear in lower hole. Then position the upper bearing housing and attach to back of chassis. This allows the cluster gear to be changed quickly.
As you can see the side is cut away. This allows me to see and adjust the crown gear better.
With this setup you can change and adjust gears easily. |
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Mar 26, 2014 9:55:12 GMT -7
That is an awesome display of skilled craftsmanship,now I can't wait to see it hit the strip.
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Post by pceng on Mar 26, 2014 13:29:43 GMT -7
Hey Rob, Nice, clean looking work. Looked back at posts, saw you mentioned 12t gear. Is that a size the Fray guys are.using ? Know there are a few sizes available for pinion/drive gears. Is that the adjusting your referring to ?
........... Peter
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 26, 2014 16:40:41 GMT -7
Thanks for all the thumbs up guys. Tom and Peter thanks for written compliments. The adjusting I am talking about Peter is the entire drive train. I have made different size Bronze Gears for this. The only way you can change the gear ratio in a 4 Gear chassis is one of two ways : change the pinion, or change the crown. I am talking gears only not tires. That was until now. Now you can change all the gears. Now you can change the armature pinion, top cluster, bottom cluster, and crown gear. Those are the only gears that effect a change in gear ratio. The two gears between the armature pinion and the top cluster are idler gears. They do not effect the gear ratio. They are however very important because I have cast them in different sizes to allow for these changes. Last but not least is size of tire to change it more. Here is a link on gear ratios. They use the T-Jet as there example. The 4Gear chassis works here to. If anybody wants to see how the math works I am happy to share that to. Link: virtualgarage.netgo to slot cars and models then to tech tips and then conversion charts and formulas |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 27, 2014 4:57:08 GMT -7
Time to start a new project. I am thinking crown gears cast in bronze for the 4 Gear, Xtraction, and T-Jet.
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Post by ks1933 on Mar 27, 2014 5:47:06 GMT -7
Robert, nice looking top plate and the virtual garage is cool too, thanks for the web site. I have been working on a four gear top plate also not to the extent that you have. I have a question if you change one of the two center gears to a smaller or bigger gear wouldn't that change the final drive ratio also? It looks like you have the two middle gears and the top cluster gear all with the same teeth. And those two slider pins you made for the two center gears man those are way cool, It is way better than grinding those posts down and re-drilling a hole, It keeps the gears meshed all the time by floating in between one another. You need to patent that idea. I am anxious to see how it works for you.
...........Dennis |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 27, 2014 7:55:01 GMT -7
Thanks Dennis....don't think I can get a patent...lol...but I did have fun building it. I am glad you asked that question. I will answer it by showing how the math works. This is what is behind the link on the virtualgarage.net that figures it for you.
If you look at the top plate let's say we have a 9t armature pinion, followed by a 24t idler gear, another idler gear at 20t, and then the top cluster gear at 20t. If you divide the 9t into the first contact gear the 24t and the 24t into next contact gear 20t, and 20t into next contact gear top cluster 20t. The math will look like the following.
24/9 x20/24 x 20/20= 2.66 x.833 x1 =2.22
Now let's change one of the idler gears to 22t.
22/9 x 20/22 x20/20 = 2.44 x .909 x 1 = 2.22
Now let's change both of the idler gears to 22t.
22/9 x 22/22 x 20/22 = 2.44 x 1 x .909 = 2.22
This only gives you your armature ratio. The drive ratio is figured when the bottom cluster gear is divided into the crown gear. To know the actual ratio do the following.
Armature Ratio x Drive Ratio = Gear Ratio
I hope I did this right and this answers your question Dennis.
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Post by ks1933 on Mar 27, 2014 19:28:19 GMT -7
Robert, thanks for the explanation on the gear change. That made it clear. |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 29, 2014 8:34:34 GMT -7
I have been very busy with continuing education . I have been learning the CAD programs Autodesk 123 and Sketchup. Why? Preparing for our new work station.
In an effort to maintain the latest in tech Eagle Racing will start prototyping in 3D. Most companies call it rapid prototyping. I will be honest and call mine slow prototyping. Big learning curve here racers, the end result will be worth the effort. If any of our racers are already working with CAD let me know. |
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Post by pceng on Mar 29, 2014 13:02:34 GMT -7
Never ask why, it's just a crooked letter that can't be staight. But, what ? What am I looking at ? Looks like a drill press of sorts. What are you up to now................ Peter
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 29, 2014 15:58:11 GMT -7
Sorry, in my excitement I really did not say what it was. What you are looking at is our new 3D Printer. We should be up and running sometime in April. This is a big move for my little company. We will be able to prototype cars and parts in CAD and print in 3D via the printer. Our printer will print in PLA, ABS, Nylon and Delrin. I am very excited to start learning this process. The first nylon chassis will be our motorcycle chassis. There is other equipment involved like a 3D scanner. The one we want is still in beta testing but it is close to all out production. That is not a problem by the time it is ready I should be up to speed with the 3D printer and ready to prototype parts etc.
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Post by pceng on Mar 29, 2014 16:28:23 GMT -7
I'm excited too, but for me and any other cavemen. What is print in 3D ? CAD ? Can only guess. Is this a cutting device that will cut from a block what is programed into computer ?
Now for the important question......... WHEN CAN I COME PLAY.......... I'll pick up Jeff, on the way......
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 29, 2014 17:11:35 GMT -7
CAD is Computer Aided Design, 3D printing differs from a cutting machine say like a lathe. The lathe removes what is not needed. In 3D printing the printer only adds what is needed in the material you are using. Jeff always says that coming to my shop is like going to the candy store, always something new  .
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Post by pceng on Mar 29, 2014 17:51:20 GMT -7
.......adds material ? Plastics are heated then ? .........this is making my mouth water........... eyes are probably bugging like in a candy store to.........
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 30, 2014 4:14:19 GMT -7
My latest car project 68 Nova. This body has been widened and features a grand sport hood. It is painted Arctic Blue Metallic. The flames are a tribal design by Flame Mask. I dig there mask. The colors are Wicked Opaque White to a Wicked Silver base. I then air brushed Wicked Laguna Blue of that. The picture shows the car with only one coat of clear, many more to follow. I just wanted to post a couple of pictures before I got busy and forgot to do it.
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