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Post by pceng on Dec 15, 2013 16:19:41 GMT -7
Hey all,
Since we now have MM/PS, and run inlines for bracket racing in NTRA events. Thought we could use a tip section on inlines in general. Wanted to ask if anyone had any tips for cleaning brush barrels. Then saw my way under my nose. Ultra sound jewelry cleaner. Going to all my loose barrels now. Be alot easier than folding strips of sand paper.
Reason for messin with the barrels was to put together a second bracket car for upcoming race. Doing it on a 440-x2wide. Put bushings into bulkheads (made from old LL cans). Here's one to try if you every put bushings in something or replace or just to upgrade existing. Taper the inside hole of the bushing. I use a conical bit and reduce the bearing surface of the hole to about 25% of its original size. When trying to reduce friction, knocking 75% off what your arm generates between itself and housing can be a plus.
Anybody with any ideas that someone else might benefit from chime in. Ideas on gearing and tire size for bracket vs. head to head? I'm sure there are plenty of ideas floating around with this group.
................................ PC
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Post by pceng on Dec 18, 2013 13:12:40 GMT -7
Couple of things about brush barrels. Never before realized how much crud can build up inside of a barrel. Aside from the elec. thing, all the build-up will definitely affect how the springs are able to function. Next time you have something apart (with brush barrels), maybe to change brushes or even to tune check the inside of the barrels. Had one spring stretch when trying to get it out of cruded up barrel.
Still doing the same Tyco bracket build that is bringing up points worth consideration. After b/barrels were cleaned up. The selection of brushes I had on hand was wanting to say the least. All were different sizes and condition was also a factor. OK, so I gotta put springs in first. Looked at Tyco, springs. Had six, three pair for sure. Because I had two springs in three different sizes. First two I picked out were the cleanest looking from the ultra sound cleaner. But when both were laying next to each other one was about a tenth longer than the other. Different batches, manufacturers don't know. But did want to use the same springs, so picked out two of the same. Clean barrels w/clean same springs, now I gotta fix the brush problem. Was going to use the longest of pieces and shorten one to match. But checked LL brushes out of curiosity and two brand new LL brushes are now in the Tyco barrels. The Life-Like brushes are shorter than the Tyco, but fit barrels and are cupped and dimpled. Cupping helps break-in time.
Couple of things, now on to pick-ups. Whats everybody with bracket entries using? Doing anything to them? What kind of gear ratios is everybody going with.
....................jus gots ta kno, PC
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Post by AJR on Dec 18, 2013 19:23:17 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing Peter. I don't have any Tyco stuff, but as with other tips I've read on the forum for all chassis, some can be applied to my builds. I am working with the G3/SG+ chassis and am a complete rookie with these. Didn't do very well last year, but going to make the effort to be more competitive this year. Just received parts and will be doing some testing with gears and tires in the weeks leading up to the race. I will post results if worth it. Thank you again for sharing........good stuff!!  Good luck at the race.  |
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Post by pceng on Dec 19, 2013 11:00:44 GMT -7
Hey Jeff,
Good luck with those G+'s. Everyone I had chassis broke on me. That was on road courses though, perhaps drag racing isn't as hard on them. Rebuilt each with G3 chassis. Never have had a G3 break. Just realized, car that Sam, sent to hearse race had part of axle pocket come off. SG+, go figure. Maybe I'm a jinx, can't get near one without it breaking. Maybe some G+'s are way more brittle than others for some reason. Can't say why chassis did break on me, can only guess from energy transfer on impact with wall, floor, other car or whatever. One cracked from top of axle pocket straight up through top of chassis, one from front of traction magnet pocket trough rear to axle pocket. And the last one that broke had the hole front end come of to the shoe hanger location. Wasn't kidding when I, said good luck buddy.
No reason for the Tyco other than had the parts on hand. But building them from spare parts made me realize some things about using used parts. I do like playing around with the 440x's, cheap platform, available parts. Think they fell out of grace with the road race crowd when things with stronger traction magnets started showing up. But those weak(by today's standards) traction magnets work great for dragging IMO.
LOOKING FORWARD to the races..................... Peter
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Post by AJR on Dec 19, 2013 13:51:48 GMT -7
Peter....I think you posted something about that last year....or at least someone did because shortly after reading it I had 2 SG+ break. 1 was used and the other brand new. Only using G3 now. Same goes for magnet clip. You get what you pay for I guess. That was another reason my car was a turd. I ran out of time trying to order chassis last minute. Both of mine split right down the middle. Once again....thanks for the info.
JJ
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 19, 2013 16:19:16 GMT -7
Peter....I think you posted something about that last year....or at least someone did because shortly after reading it I had 2 SG+ break. 1 was used and the other brand new. Only using G3 now. Same goes for magnet clip. You get what you pay for I guess. That was another reason my car was a turd. I ran out of time trying to order chassis last minute. Both of mine split right down the middle. Once again....thanks for the info. JJ |
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Post by AJR on Dec 20, 2013 7:54:55 GMT -7
Thanks nosub......This may have been what I was thinking of. I've read this before. Have it bookmarked now for reference.
JJ
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2013 12:24:50 GMT -7
How do you find these things? I can't find stuff from last week. Good info., interesting about the chassis numbers. Thanks for the link, Nosub.
...................... PC
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2013 14:31:10 GMT -7
Pick-up shoes, ugh......didn't like the small step Tyco's. Ski type shoes are available (longer contact patch possible). But couldn't find any on hand. Used the ski shoes from G and soldered to Tyco. Drilled hole through Tyco shoe, from bottem through top so any push from drill bit would be on top side and out of way. Laid in place on G shoe(minus the hanger parts). Flux in hole and solder.
I've done this before with Tyco and other brands. What I like about doing this other than the increase in contact area. Is that the resulting lower part of shoe becomes flat and way more rigid than original. I find it much easier to get a good contact patch with this. Perhaps because the hinge point of shoe is now closer to the center of the hybrid's longer contacting surface. Or being flat makes things easier. The short shoes are hard to get flat with a good contact for me. Aside from giving you more contact. The extended portion of shoe can also be forward of front hanger. Making this shoe extension possible for almost anything. Also adds a bit of weight to each shoe.
Going to think about gears for a day, leaning to a 7/22. Any opinions on gears for a bracket car (basically stock).
.............................. PC
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Post by ninjatek on Dec 23, 2013 11:23:38 GMT -7
A few more helpful tidbits for those preparing for the upcoming January event. Nosubfor3 has provided an article about interchangeable parts for inline chassis. Check it out here: Interchangeable Inline Parts Original article by Gregory Braun can be found here: Interchangeable Parts on HO Cars on SCI forum. |
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Post by pceng on Dec 23, 2013 14:14:33 GMT -7
Interesting stuff, big thanks to Vince!
Was just thinking about arms and M chassis.................... Peter
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Post by pceng on Dec 23, 2013 14:47:55 GMT -7
Not sure if this should be elsewhere. But while trying to rectify the orange vs. black tires needed for fast approaching race. Might have stumbled on something. A number of wheels I tried to fit were worn or had been on larger axles. Finally, cut down double flange and sanded down slip-ons fit inside body. One of the hubs was not staying on axle. I've done this before on front wheels but never rears. Seems to be working so I figured worth mention. I packed the axle hole with "Goop" from backside inserted axle then cleaned up any extra cement. Haven't done it yet with the rear but have taken front hubs off and they press right back on. Maybe groves in hubs from splines are filled, maybe a sleeve is created around axle because when re-installing hub you can feel the rubbery cement. So far all have come out aligned and spin true. Worth a try, I've thrown out a bunch of worn out hubs before doing this.
............................... PC
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 23, 2013 15:38:30 GMT -7
An economical bracket car to build surprisingly is Auto Worlds Super III. It comes with poly motor magnets, adjustable neo traction magnets, adjustable brush barrels and a three position front axle holes to fit almost any body. It will accept any gear combination from any manufacture also. You can get the RTR chassis for about $10.00-$15.00 add a Wizzard or Tyco 3.0 ohm green wire arm for about $12.00 a set of tall silly foams ,.470-.490 for another $9.00( to overcome the high down force of the neo's)add some braids and BAM you have a bracket car. The only drawback is the pickup shoes. But if you add braids and change them regularly the shoes won’t wear a groove in them.
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Post by pceng on Dec 23, 2013 16:20:56 GMT -7
Never have seen one of these chassis (any chance of pic?). Like the sound of three position front, and adjustable barrels. What is up with the pick-up shoes? Is it a height adjustment? Or just one of those chassis that seem to eat shoes?
.................................tia, PC
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 23, 2013 16:41:15 GMT -7
Never have seen one of these chassis (any chance of pic?). Like the sound of three position front, and adjustable barrels. What is up with the pick-up shoes? Is it a height adjustment? Or just one of those chassis that seem to eat shoes? .................................tia, PC The shoes are unique to the chassis. Meaning only AW shoes will fit. AW did not make replacement parts for the Super III.The only way you can get parts is if some one like JAGS parts out NOS chassis. Speaking of JAGS go to his web site and click HO slot cars pic.Under cars/parts/chassis menu click Super III. at the bottom of the page is the pic of the Super III. $11.75 gets your choice of black or silver rims. jaghobbies.com/ho_slot_cars/slot_cars.htm |
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