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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2020 20:56:36 GMT -7
amazing.
can't wait to see it run.
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Post by hairycanary on Aug 10, 2020 22:00:53 GMT -7
I've been goofing around with the crown gear a couple of weeks ago. I had to go through the process to see for my self and learned a lot by doing it so far. I've got a whole lot to go and a lot more to learn. I'm trying for something simple that will live and maybe run at the middle of the pack ? A couple of weeks ago I spent a lot of time and parts. I started with the the crown and the first weak part I found was to be the small gear on the cluster gear. I made a cutaway of the chassis so I could see what was going on in there. Re configured different crowns to make the crown live then that small cluster gear kept failing. so this last weekend I replaced that gear with a brass gear. then that made the crown the weak part. So I installed a Wizard 20 tooth brass crown. Don't know if this has been tried ? I didn't want to spend the time to move the shoulder on the crown to the opposite side. I did a quickie just to see if it would work. I wanted this to be easy or easier so I drilled out the passenger side axle hole so the shoulder of the crown stuck out and worked as part of the axle. Spins in that hole like the axle. A lot of drag but so far seems to be working ok ? Despite drilling that hole wrong. The crown hole is about .040 back farther than the driver side axle hole. I still need to do some tweaking to the cluster gear. This was just a Guinea pig to see if all this would be worth building one for real ? I forgot to add that the arm is 3.4 with neutral timing got off ebay years ago, poly motor mags, some old braids with no shunts and every thing else basically stock. no wheelie bar. I put some ugly Jag white rear wheels and the big dragster tires .610 final diameter glued on with Flex glue. The glue held up good. Made about 20 runs and now my weak part is the same gear Jeff stripped. #2 idle I guess that's what it's called ? About every 5 runs it would strip. Maybe after I build the one for real hopefully things will be smoother and more free ? I think there may be some misalignment and putting a load on that gear ? The 20 runs I made they all where pretty consistent. Tested without body. I think with a 15 tooth crown it would maybe run low .500's ?? This setup the gearing is to low. Here's the best so far 60'-.0950 330'-.2586 660'- .4043 1000'- .5434 26.95 The worst was a .5598. I think It has potential for a fairy easy build for now for one of these Beast's   Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr |
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Post by GTS on Aug 11, 2020 4:27:04 GMT -7
Awesome stuff guys! Thanks for sharing!
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Post by AJR on Aug 11, 2020 6:09:52 GMT -7
I've been goofing around with the crown gear a couple of weeks ago. I had to go through the process to see for my self and learned a lot by doing it so far. I've got a whole lot to go and a lot more to learn. I'm trying for something simple that will live and maybe run at the middle of the pack ? A couple of weeks ago I spent a lot of time and parts. I started with the the crown and the first weak part I found was to be the small gear on the cluster gear. I made a cutaway of the chassis so I could see what was going on in there. Re configured different crowns to make the crown live then that small cluster gear kept failing. so this last weekend I replaced that gear with a brass gear. then that made the crown the weak part. So I installed a Wizard 20 tooth brass crown. Don't know if this has been tried ? I didn't want to spend the time to move the shoulder on the crown to the opposite side. I did a quickie just to see if it would work. I wanted this to be easy or easier so I drilled out the passenger side axle hole so the shoulder of the crown stuck out and worked as part of the axle. Spins in that hole like the axle. A lot of drag but so far seems to be working ok ? Despite drilling that hole wrong. The crown hole is about .040 back farther than the driver side axle hole. I still need to do some tweaking to the cluster gear. This was just a Guinea pig to see if all this would be worth building one for real ? I forgot to add that the arm is 3.4 with neutral timing got off ebay years ago, poly motor mags, some old braids with no shunts and every thing else basically stock. no wheelie bar. I put some ugly Jag white rear wheels and the big dragster tires .610 final diameter glued on with Flex glue. The glue held up good. Made about 20 runs and now my weak part is the same gear Jeff stripped. #2 idle I guess that's what it's called ? About every 5 runs it would strip. Maybe after I build the one for real hopefully things will be smoother and more free ? I think there may be some misalignment and putting a load on that gear ? The 20 runs I made they all where pretty consistent. Tested without body. I think with a 15 tooth crown it would maybe run low .500's ?? This setup the gearing is to low. Here's the best so far 60'-.0950 330'-.2586 660'- .4043 1000'- .5434 26.95 The worst was a .5598. I think It has potential for a fairy easy build for now for one of these Beast's I love the idea of opening up the chassis for the crown collar on the 20t. Such a simple idea! I think if it is kept well oiled (which mine requires) the added drag should not be too much of a problem. The Wizzard 20t is the gear that I have always used and yes it makes the car geared very low. It requires a tire .590 or bigger. Awesome stuff here! PM sent. |
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Post by skillet on Aug 11, 2020 14:17:06 GMT -7
I like the crown gear idea also Rick. I went back and forth on doing that when I started my build. I wasn't sure if it would cause a binding or not so I drifted away from the idea.one thing I found was on the idler gears, I originally had used pins/axles from the rear of a tjet for post wich are metal. It appears to me they really want to suck on to the magnet. I switched over to brass rod(wich im hoping won't bend) for gear pins/axle and that took alot of the what the heck is going on out of it.
Every one wants a winner , but even if I come in last I've had a lot of fun experimenting with this thing.
Sam/Skillet
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Post by ecbill on Aug 12, 2020 14:17:21 GMT -7
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Post by pete on Aug 13, 2020 5:28:56 GMT -7
I like the idea of opening up the chassis for the gear Harry. I wonder though, is the gear moving away in spin creating friction? do you have a way of holding the gear in place? Maybe a teflon washer or similar with grease against the backside gear or some type of stop outside of chassis other side?
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Post by dave632 on Aug 13, 2020 16:28:43 GMT -7
Pete I usually space my gears like that with .003-.010 spacers to make the mesh tighter. Especially the AFX 3 and 4 gears which have a weak cluster gear that is not properly meshing ever, as it barely engages the crown gear normally.
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Post by AJR on Aug 13, 2020 17:53:24 GMT -7
I like the idea of opening up the chassis for the gear Harry. I wonder though, is the gear moving away in spin creating friction? do you have a way of holding the gear in place? Maybe a teflon washer or similar with grease against the backside gear or some type of stop outside of chassis other side? Pete I like your second option.....I'm thinking out loud here but I think if it were me I would opt for the teflon spacer between the opposite wheel and chassis. There would be less surface area versus the back side of the gear. The more I look at this crown install option the better I like it. As it is now, I have to sand most of the crowns collar off to get it to fit. The gear becomes less stable and harder to square up. It also creates the need to bond the gear. This way the gear could be press fit...shimmed from the opposite side wheel...and your ready to get after it! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2020 18:25:11 GMT -7
I like the idea of opening up the chassis for the gear Harry. I wonder though, is the gear moving away in spin creating friction? do you have a way of holding the gear in place? Maybe a teflon washer or similar with grease against the backside gear or some type of stop outside of chassis other side? Pete I like your second option.....I'm thinking out loud here but I think if it were me I would opt for the teflon spacer between the opposite wheel and chassis. There would be less surface area versus the back side of the gear. The more I look at this crown install option the better I like it. As it is now, I have to sand most of the crowns collar off to get it to fit. The gear becomes less stable and harder to square up. It also creates the need to bond the gear. This way the gear could be press fit...shimmed from the opposite side wheel...and your ready to get after it! sound reasoning, that |
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Post by hairycanary on Aug 13, 2020 22:36:55 GMT -7
I like the idea of opening up the chassis for the gear Harry. I wonder though, is the gear moving away in spin creating friction? do you have a way of holding the gear in place? Maybe a teflon washer or similar with grease against the backside gear or some type of stop outside of chassis other side? Pete I like your second option.....I'm thinking out loud here but I think if it were me I would opt for the teflon spacer between the opposite wheel and chassis. There would be less surface area versus the back side of the gear. The more I look at this crown install option the better I like it. As it is now, I have to sand most of the crowns collar off to get it to fit. The gear becomes less stable and harder to square up. It also creates the need to bond the gear. This way the gear could be press fit...shimmed from the opposite side wheel...and your ready to get after it! That’s what my plan was and still is to put something with less drag between the crown and chassis but for now I have no room unless I shave the back side of the crown to fit a shim or washer or even a bearing ? I’m hoping once I get the axle and crown square and straight in the new build I hope I will have a little more clearance ? My experimental chassis with the axle crooked had to create a lot of drag ? Everything spun freely but under a load and plus the big tires all together had to be binding and wanting to track off center ? I think that was why it was making the idler gear unhappy ? I’m going to play around with it this weekend. Thanks for the input it’s highly needed😁 Rick |
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Post by GTS on Aug 28, 2020 17:36:20 GMT -7
I'm curious; concerning the stock cluster gear in a 4 gear, which one shreds first or more often during these kind of builds; - the driven gear (big one) - or the drive pinion gear (small one) Thanks for any and all input!  |
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Post by AJR on Aug 28, 2020 18:54:40 GMT -7
I'm curious; concerning the stock cluster gear in a 4 gear, which one shreds first or more often during these kind of builds; - the driven gear (big one) - or the drive pinion gear (small one) Thanks for any and all input! The small 12t is what shreds first. |
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Post by AJR on Aug 29, 2020 8:42:28 GMT -7
I'm curious; concerning the stock cluster gear in a 4 gear, which one shreds first or more often during these kind of builds; - the driven gear (big one) - or the drive pinion gear (small one) Thanks for any and all input! This something that I did before I made my brass plate due to the continuing failure of the lower 12t part of the stock cluster gear. I made a hybrid and pinned it with piano wire. I either used Loctite black or JB Weld to bond it with. JB is my go to for anything I need strength for anymore. This gear worked, but as I continued to make more power the weak link became the upper 20t gear of the cluster. Therefore the brass plate idea was born.  |
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Post by AJR on Aug 29, 2020 8:52:04 GMT -7
I'm seeing something interesting that I haven't seen before. Maybe it's the lower ohm arm, but there is more heat being built up and it's causing the brush springs to collapse and lose their spring. I have an idea that might help. I'm actually using Dash pick up springs for the brushes because they are thicker and taller. Stock brush springs these days look very weak. Don't want to run wet comm....too messy. I prefer brushes.
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