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Post by skillet on Aug 29, 2020 13:17:49 GMT -7
Not sure if you might have the same thing going on or not. I picked up another 4gear autoworld (new). It drove ok, then the next day it was a bit slower and running a bit hot. Spun the wheels looked at it, didn't really see anything wrong and it ran ok again. This happened a couple times. I had changed nothing on the car and it just ran different periodically. My brain kept wanting to look at the electrical side of things. Well after driving myself mad I finally figured out the front of the top plate was kicking to the side, just a fraction bearly noticeable. I tied it down with some wire. I strung the wire through the back axle holes and over the top plate. It seems to be running consistent now and no heat. Never ran across this problem before but definitely has me thinking i should go through my cars to see if more are doing this and I just never noticed.
Sam
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Post by GTS on Aug 29, 2020 15:38:15 GMT -7
I'm curious; concerning the stock cluster gear in a 4 gear, which one shreds first or more often during these kind of builds; - the driven gear (big one) - or the drive pinion gear (small one) Thanks for any and all input!  This something that I did before I made my brass plate due to the continuing failure of the lower 12t part of the stock cluster gear. I made a hybrid and pinned it with piano wire. I either used Loctite black or JB Weld to bond it with. JB is my go to for anything I need strength for anymore. This gear worked, but as I continued to make more power the weak link became the upper 20t gear of the cluster. Therefore the brass plate idea was born.  Cool, thanks! I was considering trying something similar. My thought was to put both the 12 tooth metal and 20 tooth plastic gear on a piece of brass tubing 1/16" I.D. x 3/32" O.D.. The brass tubing would act as a sleeve on the 0-80 screw shank. Not certain if it will work but will keep you posted on results. Might try the same kinda' thing using all metal gears. My hope was to keep the gears all aligned better, using the sleeve, we'll see how it goes . Thanks again!
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Post by GTS on Aug 29, 2020 15:44:59 GMT -7
Not sure if you might have the same thing going on or not. I picked up another 4gear autoworld (new). It drove ok, then the next day it was a bit slower and running a bit hot. Spun the wheels looked at it, didn't really see anything wrong and it ran ok again. This happened a couple times. I had changed nothing on the car and it just ran different periodically. My brain kept wanting to look at the electrical side of things. Well after driving myself mad I finally figured out the front of the top plate was kicking to the side, just a fraction bearly noticeable. I tied it down with some wire. I strung the wire through the back axle holes and over the top plate. It seems to be running consistent now and no heat. Never ran across this problem before but definitely has me thinking i should go through my cars to see if more are doing this and I just never noticed. Sam I noticed the same shifting in the front with a couple Aurora chassis I've been working on and was the first I'd ever noticed.
Thanks for posting this!
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Post by AJR on Aug 29, 2020 19:33:27 GMT -7
Not sure if you might have the same thing going on or not. I picked up another 4gear autoworld (new). It drove ok, then the next day it was a bit slower and running a bit hot. Spun the wheels looked at it, didn't really see anything wrong and it ran ok again. This happened a couple times. I had changed nothing on the car and it just ran different periodically. My brain kept wanting to look at the electrical side of things. Well after driving myself mad I finally figured out the front of the top plate was kicking to the side, just a fraction bearly noticeable. I tied it down with some wire. I strung the wire through the back axle holes and over the top plate. It seems to be running consistent now and no heat. Never ran across this problem before but definitely has me thinking i should go through my cars to see if more are doing this and I just never noticed. Sam I noticed the same shifting in the front with a couple Aurora chassis I've been working on and was the first I'd ever noticed.
Thanks for posting this!
I am using a front clip on my Unlimited that keeps that from happening. I believe Swiftkart said that Slot Car Central sells those as AFX 4g front clips. I think that is where I got mine, but it might just be an Aurora G+ clip. Looks very similar. |
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Post by skillet on Sept 13, 2020 19:33:09 GMT -7
G plus and ultra 5 chassis clips fit. I was just checking them out.  |
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Post by ecbill on Sept 14, 2020 6:33:29 GMT -7
G plus and ultra 5 chassis clips fit. I was just checking them out. Was that clip a direct fit or did it require modifications |
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Post by skillet on Sept 14, 2020 14:05:02 GMT -7
No modifications. It feels like its not going to be long enough , but it snaps right in.
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Post by GTS on Sept 16, 2020 8:02:50 GMT -7
Put one of these on one of my Altered entries yesterday. Was a definite improvement in my situation and like skillet said, " . . . it snaps right in . . ".
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Post by skillet on Oct 5, 2020 18:51:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2020 19:10:15 GMT -7
interesting set up Sam.
faster than mine
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Post by skillet on Oct 5, 2020 20:56:19 GMT -7
I wouldn't say that Al. A little touch on the car and they act different. I just hope my next one is a little quicker.
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Post by hairycanary on Dec 27, 2020 11:40:00 GMT -7
I had some time yesterday to goof around with some new toys I've been collecting for awhile to attempt on making us some crown gears for our hopped-up pancakes. I'm not a machinist don't pretend to be and have no idea on what I'm doing and any input would be appreciated. I'm learning on the fly while I'm going. This is my first try at machining a 15 tooth crown out of brass. except I did the math wrong and it turned out a 16 tooth. It needs a shoulder for more surface area on the axle. For the t-jet will be easy on the backside of the gear the 4G needs to be on the inside or the tooth side of the gear which for my machining skills might take some trial and error to figure out . I tested it on a t-jet Gasser chassis I had just to see how it meshed ? And it seemed to mesh pretty good. It actually performed better than the gear I had in it. Now that I think I will be able to make some crown rears I'm going to order some silicone bronze material. I also picked up some 20 tooth brass pinion wire for the top cluster gear and idler. Thank You Jeff for hooking me up with the pinion wire source. And I found a aluminum 60 pitch 26 tooth gear that I'm going to try to make work for the big idle gear on the 4G. I also found one in carbon fiber, I couldn't find 26 tooth in brass pinion wire in 60 pitch. So here are some pictures of what I've did so far.  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr |
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Post by ecbill on Dec 27, 2020 12:39:37 GMT -7
I had some time yesterday to goof around with some new toys I've been collecting for awhile to attempt on making us some crown gears for our hopped-up pancakes. I'm not a machinist don't pretend to be and have no idea on what I'm doing and any input would be appreciated. I'm learning on the fly while I'm going. This is my first try at machining a 15 tooth crown out of brass. except I did the math wrong and it turned out a 16 tooth. It needs a shoulder for more surface area on the axle. For the t-jet will be easy on the backside of the gear the 4G needs to be on the inside or the tooth side of the gear which for my machining skills might take some trial and error to figure out . I tested it on a t-jet Gasser chassis I had just to see how it meshed ? And it seemed to mesh pretty good. It actually performed better than the gear I had in it. Now that I think I will be able to make some crown rears I'm going to order some silicone bronze material. I also picked up some 20 tooth brass pinion wire for the top cluster gear and idler. Thank You Jeff for hooking me up with the pinion wire source. And I found a aluminum 60 pitch 26 tooth gear that I'm going to try to make work for the big idle gear on the 4G. I also found one in carbon fiber, I couldn't find 26 tooth in brass pinion wire in 60 pitch. So here are some pictures of what I've did so far. Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr You mentioned 60 pitch gears. So that's the correct pitch of the top gears and pinion? |
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Post by dave632 on Dec 27, 2020 14:14:52 GMT -7
Nice work Rick.
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Post by skillet on Dec 27, 2020 14:53:49 GMT -7
Dang Rick, how'd you pull that off. Looks like a winner.
More surface area...could you solder some brass tube stock to it. Or drill the hole for brass tube to go through then solder. Just thinking out loud.
16t looks good to me
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