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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Mar 23, 2014 8:52:27 GMT -7
MM/PS Test Cars:
Remember you can send anything you would like for this test.If you would like to see the results of using different parts in any type of chassis build it and send it to the Nor'Easter Nationals for testing.Don't limit yourself the only rule to remember is weight 22 grams. These test cars will help us all see what other changes we may need for the MM/PS class.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Mar 23, 2014 12:33:21 GMT -7
Hey Nosub, we went over the m/mag, & ceramic grade polys a while back. You might have missed it. Polys are ok if in ceramic grade. Think they make them ftom left-over material. This is the reason I want to check different magnets for comparison. .......... Peter Well I just tested my Super III without traction magnets. All I can say is forget that. Car just spins the tires like a stock t-jet with rubber tires. So my next test will be to find some poly traction magnets I can cut to size to replace the neo's in the super III. If that works then I will try to fit some ceramic motor magnets in the chassis. This is becoming a Frankenstein build.
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Post by pceng on Mar 23, 2014 17:20:55 GMT -7
Hey Nosub, been thinking about what Phantom, posted. Just finished checking various magnets (had things to do first). Checked strenghts on tester (kind you read difference in volts.........hans device maybe ? Can't remember name). Very surprised to find G and Tyco mags almost the same. Just checked mags with positive effect. G magnets averaged +2.6, Tyco's +2.5. Thought Tyco's to be way weaker. The G's were far more consistent in their strenght and did not vary much from avg. The Tyco were all over the place from +2.05 - +4.10 most of them lower than their avg. Around +2.3, probably closer to the mark as avg if you throw out the high and low numbers. So the G's on avg were a little stronger, but not much.
What I found intresting (sort of expected) was that the Mega G magnets (black & shiny polys). Were not as strong as a stock G mag. Only have two Mega G'S, both read the same. +2.41, little more than Tyco's. But weaker than the G avg. And only as strong as the weakest of all G mags tested. Had been thinking about traction magnets, perhaps mtr/mag are a better example of magnet strenght being a factor to be considered instead of magnet type.
Traction magnets, was thinking about strenght testing. But keep thinking why ? Maybe I'm missing something...... lol.....wouldn't be the first time. IS A RULE GOVERNING TRACTION MAGNETS NEEDED ? ? ? Without one cars that come with neo t/mags could run (maybe depending on m/mags). I don't get the reason for a t/mag rule. Is it to limit how strong a magnet is ? Seems like that to me. For what reason though ? I would prefer a car to have as little downforce as is needed, so as not to hinder any forward motion. If someone wanted to use super strong t/mags, God bless them. But why would anyone want to use magnets that can suck the rails out of a plastic track, that you need a pry bar to get off of track, and then someone to hold the pry bar to get the car off. This one rule is making less sense the more I think about it. ............. Peter
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Post by ks1933 on Mar 23, 2014 18:32:01 GMT -7
With all of the talk about magnets, is there any way of telling the difference between the different kinds of magnets other than different color paint on them or testing the strength? I have been searching for any information on magnets with no success.
.........Thanks,Dennis
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Post by pceng on Mar 23, 2014 21:52:09 GMT -7
Hey Dennis, Some magnets the difference in color wiil jump out. I tested a poly magnet today that was black shiny like plastic. Other poly magnets I've seen were not as dark. But the different types of magnets are different materials and looked at closely could be viewable. Ceramic mags, I believe are the coarser appearing, and polys much smoother. Of course if you could remember the color code everyone uses that would help...........lol.....good luck with that. Oh, neo's....... have 4 cars with neo's....... the strenght of these magnets (motor magnets, no metal traction), is obvious. Things will fly ffarther to say hello than ever.
Hope this helps........... Peter
Forgot again, neo's require a good amount of force to seperate them.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Mar 24, 2014 16:37:56 GMT -7
With all of the talk about magnets, is there any way of telling the difference between the different kinds of magnets other than different color paint on them or testing the strength? I have been searching for any information on magnets with no success.
.........Thanks,Dennis
This is under archives on Nitros home page.http://ninjatekprojects.com/PDF/ArmMagQuickGuide.pdf This is for Aurora magnets only. The newer Dash and poly's are a different animal themselves.
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Post by pceng on Mar 24, 2014 17:10:23 GMT -7
Thought a car with magnets weaker than anything being used in MM/PS, might be used despite the types of magnets in car. Could happen...... NOT with a Mega G. Unless using a 6ohm floats your boat. Had car apart twice now, checked mag yesterday. Took apart again because something about the arm wasn't right. Measured 6.1-6.2-6.2, same length overall as MRT & Wiz arms. Wire appears heavier than that on 3ohm arms, only guess is thick insulation because it ohm's at 6. Kicker is, it has a larger dia. by .017 (stacks) and is longer from comm to furthest wrappings on stacks by .025. Wires also project from ends of stacks more than other arms. Hit me that I've tried putting a 3ohm in a Mega g when I got them. No luck, would not work. Could not figure out why. Still don't know, but maybe something to do with the size and the length of the wrappings. Stacks are same length but wrappings take more space length-wise. Maybe it projects a different magnetic field somehow.
No 3ohm arm currently made, that I know of will work in a Mega G. Unless its the arm I tried, but it works it's in the VW pick-up from Doug's race.
NEXT - - -what other kind of chassis do I have........
Hey Nosub, good luck with the super 3.......... rooting for you !
........................ Peter
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Post by pceng on Mar 28, 2014 16:46:39 GMT -7
Hey All, couple of things about timing advances....... was thinking of using MRT arm in something for testing after upcoming race. However the arms that are tied or wrapped have the wires between the comm contacts and stacks sealed in what looks like plastic of some sort. Could not advance this arm. MRT's arm that is just soldered and balanced may not have this.............. anybody have one that could verify this ?
.........after breaking down can and advancing arm for testing it struck me that allowing advanced timing doesn't really make things even.......... the most advance that can be had from turning the comm on a factory motor is about 10 degree......... does anybody know at what point advancing timing will start to have an adverse affect ? Think the G's have a greater range. Know they can be tweaked beyond workable range. Did I say this before ?
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Post by pceng on Apr 13, 2014 10:48:14 GMT -7
Not sure where to put this - been thinking about what, Cordell said, about 4g's. The number of stock classes, the turnout for events being an indication of their popularity. The more modified the builds become seems to have a direct relation to turnout.
But at the same time, inline bracket races look to be the most popular events we have. So does this make inlines the most popular? The MM/PS class shows a far greater range of drop off in turnout than the 4g classes. Even though the bracket cars are an open class in terms of builds. One could spend as much or as little as they want on a car. The MM/PS probably being the more expensive of the two builds for most. I know I have more invested in either MM/PS car than all the bracket cars I have.
I think looking at the big picture, so to speak. That what turnouts indicate is that stock classes (or near stock). Are not popular for being near stock but for being inexpensive in terms of builds when compared to other classes. Also, the fact anything can be run as a bracket car has to have a great deal with turnout. Or so it would seem.
The inlline classes we have are probably going to expand. If expense is kept low and cars available for use unrestricted, we could have a very popular class. Besides the MM/PS and bracket cars.
IMO, an unrestricted inline class run on 22v wall warts would satisfy both builders and pocket books. No point in spending crazy $ $ on magnets and arms. They won't work on a wall-wart ! Race entrants could send anything they like, built ftom mix & match stuff or out of a box. I believe a class like this would lead to some very interesting builds by members that everyone could learn new things from.
Another thing to consider when it comes to turnout at races could be the voltage at which races are run. The lower voltage races have better turnouts. It has been said here time and again how important it is to test & tune cars. And at the voltage they will be run ! I agree, tunning cars is important to be competitive. This plays into expense also. I'm sure members have more wall packs between us than variable power supplies. Perhaps this lack of some being able to tune at a given voltage as well as $ for parts has something to do with turnouts. Perhaps making voltage changes in rules, in effect making voltage requirements more main stream would bring a rise in attendance to both races and membership...........
Hope new and old to the site will join in. The more things brought up and faster they are resolved the easier it will be for changes to take place when the time comes...............
........................ Peter .........(Cordell, I hear those same crickets).........
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Post by pceng on Apr 22, 2014 13:02:31 GMT -7
Been looking at rules lately.......... need to refresh............ under Legacy, SS says gaping is allowed........ more modified classes dis-allow this......... but SS is ok ?
Is this maybe referring to making the arm, co-encentric ? And not gaping motor magnets............ been awhile since gaping anything.......
.........tia, Peter (keeping fingers crossed)
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Post by pceng on May 1, 2014 10:09:15 GMT -7
Short time ago there was a question about the length of wheelie-bars on gassers for upcoming race. A lenght of 1.25 or 1.5 (I forgot) was mentioned as correct. Where is this lenght measured from ? Is it taken rear of car to end of bars ? Also, is this lenght rule going to apply to all classes ? .................tia, Peter
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Post by ninjatek on May 1, 2014 15:16:19 GMT -7
Short time ago there was a question about the length of wheelie-bars on gassers for upcoming race. A lenght of 1.25 or 1.5 (I forgot) was mentioned as correct. Where is this lenght measured from ? Is it taken rear of car to end of bars ? Also, is this lenght rule going to apply to all classes ? .................tia, Peter 2 inches was the original max length for wheelies for Gasser class. That was changed a few years back to 1 1/4 inchs. As it was listed differently in places, the 2 inch max will be legal for 2014. Beginning 2015 the 1 1/4 inch rule will be enforced. 2" max wheelie bar rule (for all classes that allow wheelie bars) is legal for the remainder of 2014. Hopes are that a more comprehensive restructure of rules can be done soon in order that they may be instituted in 2015. Please continue to voice items of rules confusion so that they may be addressed.
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Post by pceng on May 14, 2014 20:19:06 GMT -7
Was thinking about changes that may be forthcoming........ about what , Cordell has said. That members should keep posting questions concerning rules & changes to them they would like to see.
Only by the time the year is over....... who knows where half the posts will be ? If everyone stuck to this thread compiling things at the end of the year will be easier.
Had the idea that if everybody that races with the NTRA were to submit only one item, the list of things needing consideration would grow. Everybody that races must have an opinion or question about something in our rules.
C'mon, lets get it together and get a list of things that need to be addressed before the year is out. ........ Peter
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Post by pceng on May 15, 2014 9:02:15 GMT -7
Example : Was looking at N/PS rules (rules found were dated 2009, not sure if current). Class has not run in some time and 2 events are scheduled. Two things under brushes caught my attention. First was the phrase - no spring brushes - guessing this was ment to be, no brush springs. Also guessing this is in reference to coil springs, since the brush contacts on plate act as springs. Second, no brush tubes are allowed. This, I guess should have been brush cups. These are minor things, or wording errors. Potential for future discord does exist, as things are. Any time someone raises an eyebrow when going through rules, POST THE REASON.
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Post by ninjatek on May 15, 2014 18:28:30 GMT -7
. . . Two things under brushes caught my attention. First was the phrase - no spring brushes - guessing this was ment to be, no brush springs. Also guessing this is in reference to coil springs, since the brush contacts on plate act as springs. . . . My understanding of the term spring brushes is as trick, gimmick, or quick fix that is used by those that know how to get by in a pinch in the case of losing a brush during racing. The spring is attached to the brush contact and stretched enough to make contact with the com plate. Some have found this to be a better connection and use this method part of their regular set-up. Second, no brush tubes are allowed. This, I guess should have been brush cups. These are minor things, or wording errors. Potential for future discord does exist, as things are. I believe the wording is to describe what is better know as brush cups. You and all other Racemasters should check for PM in next 20 minutes or so.
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