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Post by yellerstang on Feb 7, 2015 4:16:33 GMT -7
I just got into the book again, keep in mind this book was written before great magnets were available for the Aurora cars. The AFX cars were a few years later, it takes hotter magnets to run hotter wire setups.
Here are a few of the suggested wire sizes:
13.5' or #37
10, 11, or 12' of #36
7,8, 9, or 10' of #35
Keep in mind that you have to get the comm plate back on, so everything has to be evenly wound and smooth. As a kid I encountered this issue, wrapping without an arm winder is very difficult.
If you completely unwind an old arm, like a Christmas tree style, take each of the wires and cut them in half and then double wind each pole you can make a pretty hot arm. If anyone knows the size and length of the stock wire, you can use the calculators above to figure out what it should ohm at.
The book mentions that it is easier to measure wire to length, cut and wind, than it is to count turns. More accurate.
Ok, thats my two cents. Most of this is from the Auto World HO racing speed secrets book from 1970.
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Post by pceng on Feb 7, 2015 10:01:53 GMT -7
Thanks for links and info.
When I dbl wound stock wire I wound first two poles, then doubled wire to do last.
I prefer to count turns as going back and forth across pole. I get better looking wire bundles in terms of being similar.
Thanks again for info.......... Peter
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Post by Eagle Racing on Feb 7, 2015 10:26:39 GMT -7
Lots of info on the internet when it comes to winding motors. The calculators are interesting. They get you in the ballpark, but that's it. The rest is up to you. Best tip, write everything down.
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Post by yellerstang on Feb 7, 2015 11:49:59 GMT -7
Lots of info on the internet when it comes to winding motors. The calculators are interesting. They get you in the ballpark, but that's it. The rest is up to you. Best tip, write everything down. Im strictly amateur at winding these little things, but I love learning. Hey, anyone with experience please chime in here. Eagle has good advice.... write it down. I started printing out what I like. Web pages have a way of disappearing, dont they? Eagle, the info can be hard to find and even harder to sift through. Can you enlighten us? |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Feb 7, 2015 12:41:28 GMT -7
Lots of info on the internet when it comes to winding motors. The calculators are interesting. They get you in the ballpark, but that's it. The rest is up to you. Best tip, write everything down.Im strictly amateur at winding these little things, but I love learning. Hey, anyone with experience please chime in here. Eagle has good advice.... write it down. I started printing out what I like. Web pages have a way of disappearing, dont they? Eagle, the info can be hard to find and even harder to sift through. Can you enlighten us? I will try grasshopper....hmmm....let me see....He who knows others is wise. He who knows himself is enlightened. Lao Tzu  .....I would take one size wire and work with that. Try different lengths don't worry about counting wraps. However if you just have to count wraps knock yourself out. As I said write down what you do. Now you have to be able to test what you have done. That is another book and the name of it is Trial and Error.....  |
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Post by yellerstang on Feb 7, 2015 13:38:49 GMT -7
Eagle, thanks for the advice. This will be easier for me, I have #36 wire and not much else! After I get a few of these tjet motors under my belt, Im going to take a shot at the Dash motor...
Question.... Can I use 20 minute epoxy on my motors, or, is it something special?
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Post by pceng on Feb 7, 2015 13:54:40 GMT -7
Just stripped Mean Green (6.0 ohm broken wires). 11.5 - 12.0 ft of wire on each pole.
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Post by pceng on Feb 7, 2015 14:02:04 GMT -7
Eagle, thanks for the advice. This will be easier for me, I have #36 wire and not much else! After I get a few of these tjet motors under my belt, Im going to take a shot at the Dash motor... Question.... Can I use 20 minute epoxy on my motors, or, is it something special? Epoxy for balancing ? I prefer cutting ends on lams so no weight is added. |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Feb 7, 2015 14:13:44 GMT -7
Eagle, thanks for the advice. This will be easier for me, I have #36 wire and not much else! After I get a few of these tjet motors under my belt, Im going to take a shot at the Dash motor... Question.... Can I use 20 minute epoxy on my motors, or, is it something special? Yes, I use a little epoxy between the each stack to hold the wires in place. I do not coat the entire wind in epoxy. This adds heat. Balancing the arm is up to you some prefer epoxy for this, others remove metal from the arm. Good luck with your winding hope to see you in the N/TF class. That is where you can find out how good your winds are....  |
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Post by pceng on Feb 7, 2015 20:11:20 GMT -7
Just stripped Mean Green (6.0 ohm broken wires). 11.5 - 12.0 ft of wire on each pole. Was watching racing......... should also say, I measured.each bundle of wire top to bottem. The three measured .150, .148, .145. Think this number could go bigger than .150. Other arms look to have more wire or bigger bundles of wire on stacks (lams). |
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Post by yellerstang on Feb 7, 2015 20:22:07 GMT -7
My need for epoxy is keeping the comm plate where I want it. Im just wondering if there is a heat resistant epoxy, or if the 20 minute cure from the Ace Hardware Store is good enough.
I have Belkin #36 wire, I think this wire has a poly coating on it. What can I strip this with? Laquer thinner doesnt cut it. Anyone?! I would like to strip, not scrape or sand the wire if possible... thanks
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Post by pceng on Feb 7, 2015 20:42:46 GMT -7
Never had problem when scraping......... now I'll usually go around plate with iron. Only touch it to contact for 2 seconds at a time. Check with ohm meter and repeat as needed. As often as is needed, usually 3x at most.
...... Peter
Knew there was something else........ if using triangular plate and removing portion of noch so to advance timing. Leave backside notch leg on plate and fill space between this and tab with J B Weld. Keeps plates in place for me. Before putting plate back I put a drop of thin CA on each side of wire bundle and let soak in to wraps.
What plans do you have for arms that heat is a concern ?
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Post by dave632 on Feb 7, 2015 21:25:15 GMT -7
Just finished up last body project for X car........ gotta run out but when I get back its setup time for winding ! Dave, did you use same mags for 32 & 34g arms ? Also how high in levels did you go with polys, or did you go right to neo mags ? I've been told polys can be had that are just as strong neo's. But not sure what or which they may be. NOTE - as mentioned in other thresd, intrest may seem to lack at times. But may well stem from having to focus on upcoming race. Full schedulde makes it hard at times to think of anything but what is next. Every new class I've seen introduced to the NTRA picks up as time goes on. ........ Peter I used neo mags for both 32 & 34 arms. Had the 34 arm hit some .29s which aint bad and it would beat the 32s at times. The highest polys I used were the level 10s which work well with 3 ohm arms. I have also heard there are higher level polys but have never tried them. I kind of think the Inlines will take over eventually just due to sheer numbers. I don't mind running the Jets and AFX style but the 4 gear is such a dumb design.... I like a challenge and still might tackle building a superior gear plate in the future.
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Feb 7, 2015 22:57:52 GMT -7
Just finished up last body project for X car........ gotta run out but when I get back its setup time for winding ! Dave, did you use same mags for 32 & 34g arms ? Also how high in levels did you go with polys, or did you go right to neo mags ? I've been told polys can be had that are just as strong neo's. But not sure what or which they may be. NOTE - as mentioned in other thresd, intrest may seem to lack at times. But may well stem from having to focus on upcoming race. Full schedulde makes it hard at times to think of anything but what is next. Every new class I've seen introduced to the NTRA picks up as time goes on. ........ Peter I used neo mags for both 32 & 34 arms. Had the 34 arm hit some .29s which aint bad and it would beat the 32s at times. The highest polys I used were the level 10s which work well with 3 ohm arms. I have also heard there are higher level polys but have never tried them. I kind of think the Inlines will take over eventually just due to sheer numbers. I don't mind running the Jets and AFX style but the 4 gear is such a dumb design.... I like a challenge and still might tackle building a superior gear plate in the future.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2015 5:19:17 GMT -7
My need for epoxy is keeping the comm plate where I want it. Im just wondering if there is a heat resistant epoxy, or if the 20 minute cure from the Ace Hardware Store is good enough. I have Belkin #36 wire, I think this wire has a poly coating on it. What can I strip this with? Laquer thinner doesnt cut it. Anyone?! I would like to strip, not scrape or sand the wire if possible... thanks consider acid flux. it comes in a glass bottle with a brush in the bottle. barely a drop for the application you want. and of course clean it off with RC electric motor cleaner immediately after it cools. I have the acid flux for building 1/24 steel chassis and it is not normally recommended for electrical use. but very careful usage can obtain special results. warning DO NOT inhale the fumes while soldering. also make sure to clean the tip of the soldering iron real good on a natural sponge with distilled water in it and tin the tip again fresh after each use of the acid flux. |
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.....I would take one size wire and work with that. Try different lengths don't worry about counting wraps. However if you just have to count wraps knock yourself out. As I said write down what you do. Now you have to be able to test what you have done. That is another book and the name of it is Trial and Error..... 
