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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 17, 2015 20:57:49 GMT -7
LOL i was thinking the same thing, i run Type F but i doubt the friction modifiers that help me in my RL car would help me here. I agree Al, the stuff i saw seemed like snake oil. It came out and in my head i went... BS..thats Marvel Mystery Oil i can buy a qt for 3$ this guy wants 5$ for .5 oz LOL
I wouldnt mind trying tranny fluid, it would seem any low weight oil really. However i think ill do a test with the SillGlide and see how it comes out.
Hey Ninja! Thanks. And i will be all over those posts as soon as im done typing this.
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 17, 2015 21:08:10 GMT -7
Hes good... PDF files. I thought i was going to view a page.
Lol i agree peter, as much oil as i have in the shop i could find something. Why pay X amount for a tiny bottle when its probably a multipurpose oil anyway.
Dextron, Mercon...Geez lol you guys.
My wife wants to know whats so funny and i have no idea how to explain it.. lol!
I think ill just do that and phone in an order then, or look on ebay. Surely somebodys selling a bunch of parts for cheap. Im that kind of guy lol... ill tell you how bad i am, the water pump started weeping on my camaro, instead of spending the 100-120$ to just buy a new one i spent 40$ and bought the seal and just rebuilt it LOL. Yea yea im crazy i know but why buy something new when it just needs rebuilt.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 17, 2015 23:40:44 GMT -7
Welcome to the site from a long time drag racer, racing since the 60s with over a 1000 passes down the strip. Your ETs are excellent, surprised you do not pull the wheels some with those ETs. What is your 60' time, what rear end ratio, what kind of tires?
Nitrous can be a great way to go fast or a great way to melt pistons. One of my cars had 3 stages on it, but they were nearly useless since I could never get that kind of power to the track.
Like your ingenuity with that gear puller you should do nicely here if you decide to enter some races. Mechanical knowledge goes a long way here along with electrical.
I am the crazy who hit the 50 mph speeds running at only 20 volts. We have progressed into the high 50s now and track changes in the future promise even more.
Having a timing system is very important since you can tell how well your cars are running. I highly recommend Slot Dragon, great product and good support. It adds a whole new dimension to your racing.
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lewis
Pro Stock
Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Feb 18, 2015 6:06:19 GMT -7
I am a new guy here also but i would suggest inlines if you want to get into the high speeds like Dave. Also my opinion inline cars are simpler to build. As far as oil I use royal purple synthetic break in oil it seems to work pretty good so far.
also if you lil the real car look and for some cool rides. Check out kdog customs, hilltop customs, and skr on the home page all three are loaded with some cool realistic looking cars.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 18, 2015 6:51:21 GMT -7
Running a variety of classes makes it more interesting. The Inlines are the fastest but the other classes can be interesting to. I have been able to get some of the 3 gears to run very fast too. One of them is as quick at 6 ohms than all the Inlines I have that are running at 6 ohms.
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 18, 2015 12:10:11 GMT -7
Hey Dave, nice to meet you. I have a custom built Moser 9" rear with an all alum 3rd member 3.75s and at the time i was running Aero 15x11s with Hoosier 3035s.   1.9 in the 60ft was the best i got, the only reason i see that it wont pull the wheels completely off the ground is that these cars have so much nose. Ive even lowerd the block 1" in the K frame and moved it 1" toward the firewall to help that center of gravity push that weight to the rear, my battery is in the spare tire area and i have a 15gal tank also in the rear helping me with weight. Ive street raced it quite a bit, old highway 31 is a closed abandoned highway here that only leads to industries anymore and aslong as no ones acting a fool or tearing anything up the police will only run you off when caught. After getting the car somewhat tuned i tried it at tulsa, i passed what i thought was a poor inspection and got 2 runs. First was a 9.8 @ 122mph i was told if i run under 10s again to pull back over and i was done. I made some adjustments to the LCAs and Torque arm and changed my pitch from 0 to -1, i dont know for certain what worked but I ran again and pulled a 9.6 @135. It could have been burn out diffrence or anything really, i also added fuel which could have given me more traction. The car hooks really good, it lunges but i cant get the wheels off the ground to save my butt. Im running lakewood 90/10s so the nose lifts and appears as your driving to lift off the ground but from the outside ive been told i havnt pulled the wheels yet. Anyway, i was told i needed a cage and a bunch of other changes made to the car, i was told i needed a master switch on the rear yet i have one within arms reach in the cab and some other things so i havnt been back. This winter ive made some changes, i went corvette brakes front and rear and in doing so you cant fit 15" wheels on a 13" rotor so the Areos are gone and replaced with C6 17x9s and 18x11s, i changed from running VP 110 to running 110 lowlead airplane fuel, its 3$ less a gallon and ive noticed a clear lowend punch diffrence. Ive been working on the 7AL i have and trying different jewel differences for burnout and launch but i havnt noticed any hard changes. And saving for the cage, its about 320$ for the kit and a welder here wants 120 a point to put it in. But while its been down i bought the kids a slot track and now here i am lol. Hey Lewis, thanks for the info i will have to check it out. I like how everyone is using actual car oil/lube lol i think im also going to test what i have here, who knows after racing these cars for a while i may move to a Castrol GTX High Millage lol j/k Dave ive been chatting with peter and hes been helping me out with the 6 ohm arms and such, i havnt really planned on buying new chassis to go faster but really just hop up what i have. Keep in mind my 4 and 6 yr olds still play with all of this as well, so id like them to be semi fast yet cost effective. If they step on a car i dont want to be out 80$ lol id like to watch you guys race though, 50mph thats wicked LOL i may have a couple cars set off to the side afterwhile in Dads Collection ( evil laugh ) lol. Flat |
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lewis
Pro Stock
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Post by lewis on Feb 18, 2015 14:19:55 GMT -7
50 mph is fast for these lil guys but there is a guy on here named alpink that use to race unlimited I can't remember the site but he can tell you if you message him they run over 100 mph best I can remember the fastest was 118 mph in real mph not scale that's fricken blazing.
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 18, 2015 15:24:01 GMT -7
AL was one of the first people to talk to me on here, Great guy. He was telling me of a 40$ puller on page1 of this thread, i can see how some people spend alot of money in the hobby and as with anything... if you want to go faster all you need is money lol. 100mph that is blaaazziinngg, thats like pull the trigger while looking at the finish line. I cant fathom 100mph.
Is anyone adding anything to the track to improve traction? On my scale AW track i would say all the cars i have light the tires on fire past the scale 60ft for sure, almost scale 1/8th. I dont see how you guys get such good traction to even go remotely that fast. Ive been looking at lucky bobs and getting the slip ons, hopefully then they will hook.
Also it was said on here that you could use o-rings for the front tires? The stock AW chassis i have, have a groove on the front rims. Do i need to shave this off? How does the o-ring stay on and what size o-rings are we talkin? Any input on this would help me out, i have a chassis right now that i goofed the front tires on.
Sometimes a guy needs to know when to shoot the Good Idea Fairy in the head...lol
Let me just say cutting the front tires down the middle is not a good idea on how to narrow the front wheel pattern. That one will cost me.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 18, 2015 16:34:15 GMT -7
I don't know how much room you have under the wheel well, most stock Camaros are lucky to get a 9-10" tire under there but bigger slicks will help a lot.
A higher stall converter is also a big help but not good if you drive it on the street. You also cannot use the same converter for both motor and nitrous. What runs like garbage on motor will be killer on the juice. That simply means you need a tighter converter for the juice.
Here is a shot of a Camaro I had doing a big wheelie which actually hurts your ET.
Here is a shot of the Beretta leaving and lifting only about 3-4" where the energy is
moving forward. It had a 1.07 ET vs the Camaros 1.28. 
Al once held the record for those unlimiteds. They ran off of two car batteries with lots of amps and a longer track, still super high speeds. Something I would get involved in if it was in my area.
My stopping distance is limited and even with keeping the volts down to 20 and steel bar shutdown area the fast cars are still hitting the stop box at 20-25 mph. I plan to add 2 30 amp power supplies to my track in the future which now has 2 10 amp supplies. That should max out the cars I have and it should get them into the 60 mph range still at 20v. When running 2 of those cars on my track at the same time they tend to lose 7-10 mph and 1/2 tenth in ET which is a lot for those cars.
Look on E bay for those front tires, somebody sells O rings that are perfect for the AFX cars and they cost very little. Don't think you need to remove the groove.
My cars have run well into the .2s for the 15.5' track. The cars Al was running were in the .1s for a longer track.
Even with mine it is hard to see the cars run. By the time it starts it is over. If I look at the car on
the starting line it is hard to turn my head fast enough to see the finish.
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lewis
Pro Stock
Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Feb 18, 2015 17:24:56 GMT -7
HC slots sales o ring front ends. I have a few I could send you a pic of one if you wanna pm me your number I can't post pics on here my phone wont let me and messing with our computer is like working for nasa lol. My rear tires came from lucky bobs there Slade brown tires I'm thinking there .458. There kind of expensive but work well for my inline cars mine aren't as fast as daves but I will eventually get them there.
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 18, 2015 17:39:54 GMT -7
On the 18x11 C6 wheels i run a 305/35R18 Riken Raptor. For a street tire they hook pretty good, i only burn out enough to clean them off and line up. The 3035s i was running were 13 1/2" wide but they would swell and get taller, ive mini tubbed the car and use what youd call a small tire. I looked into backhalfing the car but the same shop i spoke to about doing the cage estimated a backhalf at 10k and thats cash i just dont have at the moment. The trans i have is a TCI Super Streetfighter with a 3000 stall w/ Antibaloon, Full manual, Reverse pattern. When i first ran the trans i could tell it was a great trans, that thing grabs. I love that first gen wheel pull that thing looks killer, i would love it if my camaro pulled like that Beretta, thats the pull im going for.
Right now ive pulled all the nitrous equiptment out to prepare for the cage set up and ive been back and forth on leaving it out and replacing it with a 144 Weiand blower, but im still on the fence with that one.
Back to slot car talk, what is a AFX car? I think these are 4Gears? Do i need to buy the AFX wheels to use the O rings?
Is the scale quarter mile 20' for these cars?
I believe the track i have is just shy of 20' of thats so.
Two power supplies @ 30 amps ea? I would assume that, that is 30 amp supplied to each lane? I can see how that would make the cars fly faster vs my whatever stock amperage supply i have to both lanes.
Has there been any modifying to a stock AW track? Lol i find myself like a minnow in a shark pond ha ha ha. If not i may have to venture into unknown territory.
Cant see the cars run LOL i bet bud, at 100mph i can see how they would be real hard to watch. Al seems like he would be the guy to hold a few records, definately comes off as he knows his stuff. I appreciate all the help guys, i know im probably a pain in the fact youve got to slow down and make things easier to understand but know that it doesnt go unappreciated at all. Thanks
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2015 19:06:31 GMT -7
OK youse gise!!!
they only let me hold the record for a few months and they worked feverishly to break it too.
I ran 0.182 on a 17.5' track on 28 volts with about unlimited amps.
that was a single qualifying pass alone after having the third fastest pass on my first qualifying run while the commutator was disintegrating. huge ball of flame down the track.
rebuilt it in the pits in about 15 minutes and put the 0.182 down on them.
backed it up in eliminations by 1%, so i did have the fastest slot car on earth for a little while. LOL.
Steve Geary did eliminate me in the quarter finals. he treed me. hole shot win. but I still had the fastest car which earned me a highly coveted invitation to Slugger's annual open house in VA during Jan.
Steve sold his car during that meet for about 1/3 it's value in parts alone! LOL
so, now, we've celebrated my brief claim to fame other than being dubbed "slot nazi" by a bunch of guys when I had a commercial 1/24 drag track years before my HO exploits. set a few ET records back then too, but there were a lot of tracks and those records fell every few hours back in those days.
glad you all have jumped right in with good explanations of what it is we/you do to get these cars down the track and keep em together.
one thing I will say. if you use comm drops, clean them off the comm after every meet. immediately.
some comm drops will soften the glue holding the comm segments in place and ball of fire will occur.
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Post by pceng on Feb 18, 2015 19:25:04 GMT -7
Hey Flat,
Took notes this time so I wouldn't forget all the questions :-)....... lol.
Don't worry everyone loves talking about slot cars.........
Back to slot cars ;-)............ AW dragsters I believe are all 4g (count gears on top plate of chassis. AF/X was originally a name used by Aurora (Aurora factory experimetal). Now AW makes X-tractions & magna-tractions, copies of the AF/X chassis. The "AFX" designation is being used by Tomy (I think, please someone correct if wrong). For an inline type car.
The front wheels will take o-rings as they are. Just slip on to retaining ring as if it were a flanged wheel. To narrow front with 4g wheels. I put axle w/wheel into dremel. Use a jewlers file to taper back of wheel between ring in middle and smaller diameter projecting from center of wheel. After this is done I cut off projecting portion. Back of wheel now tapers to axle, and hub is about half the size as original. Try fit on chassis to see how much axle to remove. Been awhile since doing. I'll try to find one of each hub & post pics.
1/64 scale quarter I believe is 20'7" or something close, not sure.
The power pks that come with tracks are a whopping ½ amp. 500ma on packs.
I don't think anybody is doing anything to tracks other than cleaning. You will see a major difference when you get the new tires on. I think most prefer a low profile.tire with stock chassis.
........ Peter
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Post by pceng on Feb 18, 2015 19:34:16 GMT -7
HC slots sales o ring front ends. I have a few I could send you a pic of one if you wanna pm me your number I can't post pics on here my phone wont let me and messing with our computer is like working for nasa lol. My rear tires came from lucky bobs there Slade brown tires I'm thinking there .458. There kind of expensive but work well for my inline cars mine aren't as fast as daves but I will eventually get them there. Lewis, If your going with neo magnets a harder compound tire might be necessary. I would have another axle set up with "Quicker" neo tires...... just in case. ........ Peter |
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 18, 2015 20:14:17 GMT -7
Al... Simply Amazing Sir. I bet the fire ball was just as fun as the fast pass lol, i dont see how some of the armatures dont go into a meltdown with some of the stuff ive heard so far. With every record held there are 10 guys trying to take it lol and i dont care how fast a person thinks they are, theres always someone faster. 1/24 scale i think would be neat only because you could make the cars even more realistic, you guys do amazing work for 1/64th scale. Ive looked at bdogs cars and bondomans and wow, great inspiration. Im still working on the 66 nova, ive been looking into (4gear tips and tricks) and its been helping.
What is styrene? Where can i get it and how much? My does model cars and i was planning on using the "extras" from the parts mold as my post and body tabs.
Peter, were all car guys and i bet everyone including you knows how easy it is to get distracted on car talk LOL.
Thanks for clearing the air, is Aurora still in business or is that why AW has copied their technology?
To narrow the fronts on the 66 i simply just cut off the smaller diameter plastic coming from the wheel and chopped the axle itself down. I need to narrow the tires though, with stock rubber they rub the arms.
pictures would be perfect but i think im actually tracking you on this lol.
so this would be 20'7" from starting line to actual finish? Then i would suppose a 5' cool down? This track came with a small section of what i would call dead track, meaning it has no rails to carry current.
LOL so the power pack that comes with this track is -.- Crapolla... Perfecto LOL i have a soldering torch and know my way around soldering,welding,tiging and even oxy/gas welding... is there a way i could buy a diffrent power pack or two like dave was saying and solder them to the underside of the rails? ( i say rails but only because i dont know the terminology you guys use, but the rails that conduct power to the arms. )
Lewis hooked me up with a ebay listing of a oring axle, i may be looking into that soon.
I clean the "rails" with 1000 grit sanding paper that came with the track, my cars light the wheels on fire like i said for 60' or better so asfar as cleaning the actual track the tires set on i really dont hoping that what "rubber" is there could give me more traction. Is this wrong? Its simply second nature to me i guess being a drag racer, prestage in your burnout... it just makes sense.
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