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Post by dave632 on Feb 23, 2015 16:10:05 GMT -7
I thought spending 60.00 on an air brush was high. I will ask you some questions in the future about painting as I know little about it.
I notice you are a welder to. I still have my Miller Tig/Arc welder from my racing days. Only thing that moly could be welded with. It was not a strong suit of mine. Could never see well enough thru the welding mask to see what I was doing.
I noticed in your race the Chevy beat the Mopar. Me and a friend once had a match race with out street cars at the track. He had a early model Dodge Charger with a 440 in it to my 95 Camaro with a 350. Despite the 90 cu in advantage they were even on motor with the Camaro having a 5 mph edge in the 1/8th. I had the better ET with an 8.57 vs his 8.65 but the bum put some juice on it even though we said we would not. He of course killed me with the juice. This was all for a big bet of a hot dog and coke. |
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 23, 2015 16:23:06 GMT -7
" Flat, remember seeing mention of rear tires being close to rails.... when pushing hubs & rubber tight to chassis round off inside portion or edge of tires. Will help keep off rails.
....... Peter "
From a new guy to future new guys i wanted to do a demonstration because what peter was talking about worked perfectly
Chuck a rear axle and a rim in a drill, im using a DeWalt 20v MAX, i set the drill on high in hopes to melt that rubber just a bit and make it sticky and it worked on these stock rubber tires, may not be as good as slip-ons but if youre on a budget it works.
I use a Dremel Waffer Cut Off Disc, i didnt use the stone kind it seemed too smooth.  I then used the disc as a sanding block shaping the wheel to a more rounded look, as i ran the drill and pressed the disc against it i watch the opposite side of the tire from the disc and watched the shape of the tire, once i got to where i wanted i moved to the backside.  Here is a comparison of the tires i did.  Here is the length of rim ive made that seems to be the shortest you can go and using the whole tire without riding on the rails. Notice that i trimmed the back of the rim to where its almost gone but kept the axle stub. I trimmed just the axle stub to this length.  Hope this helps. |
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 23, 2015 16:42:30 GMT -7
Not a problem at all dave, im pretty salty when it comes to layin some color. Yes i also weld, i started out in the oilfield as a welder, welding 8" well casing pipe. I can link you in a message to my photobucket for the iroc if you would like to see some behind the scenes work on me doing the subframe and smoothing the firewall and other cool stuff.
I dont know if you still weld or not but if youre still interested but cant see they make "glasses" for welding helmets that magnify what youre doing they are called "cheaters" i believe.
LOL i dont believe ANYONE unless they remove the bottle, lesson learned? Haha. Sound like quite a power to weight battle going on as well, that mopar with the heavy 440 must have had every bit of 500 to 1000 on your camaro?
Theres always a bet, least i ever won was 1$ lol.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 23, 2015 18:27:19 GMT -7
Don't know the exact weight of the Dodge but according to specs a 1970 Charger RT was 3610. Remember this was an early 70s car, they did not have all the Govt. bull attached to them.
The Camaro was around 3560 going by the door sticker. So the weights were near even.
The Camaro was not stock, had a mild cam some port work, RRs, headers. Needed a converter bad, would stall at around 2K. If it had a converter it would have been close even with him running some juice. He ran high 7s in the 1/8th with the juice and I think the Camaro would have gotten close to that with a 3500 stall.
He added the juice just before the race. We raced anyway, cost him a lot for that hot dog and coke.
I sold him the motor out of my Beretta later on and he changed the heads and intake on it for bigger Dart heads and intake. I had Big Chiefs on mine which were rated at about 440 on the intake side. He put a set of 500+ Darts on it and it ran like a dog for him, only 5.9 in the 1/8th on motor, almost a second slower than the Beretta on motor. Heads were to big even for a 632. Here is a shot of the motor in his car, a 70 Camaro tube chassis car, after he had changed the heads and intake. It had 2 foggers and I think a plenum system on it too. He ran it once and then sold the motor and chassis. I think he was a little afraid of it.
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Post by pceng on Feb 23, 2015 18:50:04 GMT -7
There will be more to come i plan on making alot of these chassis dual use and have a stocker and a funnycar body for each. But ill make a build thread, i dont feel posting them here would be appropriate. So keep your eye out.[/quote]
Flat, don't get.shy with.pics..... There is a thread called Works in progress for such things. Also , Members rides (thread) for any pics. Especially those of cars that don't make it to any races and would go unseen otherwise.
......... Peter
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Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Feb 23, 2015 21:08:23 GMT -7
Thats a whole lot of aluminum lol. It blows my mind how people buy things like heads that are too much for the setup they run. Ive seen it a bunch. I spent 4 years doing the math and building my motor, the only thing i personally didnt do is the bore and valve extruding the rest i hand built myself.
I wont get shy with the pictures peter, im just trying to be respectful and place them in the right locations and like you said the members rides would be perfect. Im currently working on the 67 Cuda, BOY is it a tight fit... i dont have alot of pictures right now of the build to post but as a teaser it will have a small block 360 coming through the hood.
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