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Post by AJR on May 2, 2018 18:53:10 GMT -7
I'm not at all worried about any issues with the block. I think it's bada$$ and I will be glad to have one! No worries Gale....the locktite was the first thing that came to mind for me and it can be reapplied if needed. I appreciate your efforts man!
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Post by GTS on May 3, 2018 7:36:55 GMT -7
I tested one today on a few cars. Had no trouble with the screws but the front end lifted on some of the cars losing contact a simple rubber band cured that. I did have to take the flag style guide out of the cars that did not have guide pins. Worked good when running some chassis on it, I think you guys will like them, coming your way next week.  Break in block testThanks for the feedback, Dave! Greatly appreciated! Love the rubber band  . Curious if the flags are commonly used by you or any other racers?
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Post by GTS on May 3, 2018 7:38:58 GMT -7
I'm not at all worried about any issues with the block. I think it's bada$$ and I will be glad to have one! No worries Gale....the locktite was the first thing that came to mind for me and it can be reapplied if needed. I appreciate your efforts man! Thanks Jeff! |
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Post by dave632 on May 3, 2018 8:28:52 GMT -7
I occasionally use the flag although it is annoying since it never is straight when you try to put the car on the track but it does reach a little further into the slot. I prefer the round guide pin normally.
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Post by AJR on May 3, 2018 14:03:09 GMT -7
I like the pin as well, but it is pretty frail. I have filed down the blade on some builds and that works really well and gives a little more strength and depth in the groove.
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Post by GTS on May 9, 2018 16:19:51 GMT -7
Thanks for the feedback on use of the flag, appreciated. I went with holes for the guide pin hoping to stabilize the car while running. Not sure now if that's even necessary. As I try to improve the design, probably just go back to a slot. I have some other ideas, too. Any suggestions are always welcome. I liked dave632's setup with the rubber band, which is almost a necessity with some cars, so I re-did my setup and just mounted with one screw right to the bench so it would be easier to do the same thing sorta. Breakin' in a new AW 4-Gear at present, hoping to get something together for NZ.  |
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Post by hotwheels on May 9, 2018 17:55:49 GMT -7
I already used mine once,need to go get some more alligator clips though.Also need to make some chassis holders too.Probably going to use coat hanger or welding rod for them? My problem is I don't have a low enough voltage supply to run cars in slowly. Think I can go with the old controller trick? Just tape or rubber band my controller at half throttle.
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Post by GTS on May 9, 2018 18:23:45 GMT -7
I already used mine once,need to go get some more alligator clips though.Also need to make some chassis holders too.Probably going to use coat hanger or welding rod for them? My problem is I don't have a low enough voltage supply to run cars in slowly. Think I can go with the old controller trick? Just tape or rubber band my controller at half throttle. Glad you're getting some use out of it! The holes on the sides are 1/16th inch, if that helps. I made some out of brass rod and I think an axle will fit. Sure on the taped controller. I used various old wall warts I had layin' around until I found this one in the pic, in a drawer. It works really good.  |
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Post by AJR on May 9, 2018 18:49:52 GMT -7
I already used mine once,need to go get some more alligator clips though.Also need to make some chassis holders too.Probably going to use coat hanger or welding rod for them? My problem is I don't have a low enough voltage supply to run cars in slowly. Think I can go with the old controller trick? Just tape or rubber band my controller at half throttle. I think a standard dimmer switch would work as well. They are cheap. |
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Post by dave632 on May 9, 2018 20:27:24 GMT -7
To help hold the chassis to the block you can use old AFX and T jet axles which are 1/16" if you do not have 1/16" rod.
I have also used it several times already getting some cars ready for NZ. Have one 14 ohm AFX car flying. Not surprising it is a 57 Chevy Nomad but this one is green.
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Post by gnome on May 12, 2018 4:25:31 GMT -7
Super nice work Gts.machine work is really clean.found three different ways to alleviate problem with front of car lifting, simply cutting block off behind the adjustment screws problem solved works killer ,i also found running the screws in all the way and placed small ball bearing on top of the screw aloud the front to rock down easier another solution may be to drill and tap the adjustable screws on a few degree angle. Great addition to motor city raceway thank you very much all the time and work greatly appreciated
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Post by GTS on May 12, 2018 7:17:06 GMT -7
Awesome! Glad it's proving useful  . If you could post pics of your modifications, when you have time, that would be killer !!! G |
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Post by gnome on May 12, 2018 16:42:47 GMT -7
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Post by GTS on May 12, 2018 17:19:07 GMT -7
Thanks Gnome for the pics and ideas. I'll have to do up another prototype sometime, with angled holes. One of the first prototypes I did had a lower ledge in the back for the tires to clear which worked pretty good except cars with no traction magnets were really unstable. I think the whole design could be simplified a bit if it wasn't for cars with no traction magnets  . Appreciate all the good ideas and input, keep it comin'  . |
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Post by dave632 on May 12, 2018 19:13:45 GMT -7
I have used mine several times already. I added the rubber band in the front to stabilize the car/chassis, works great. Only thing I would recommend is a slot instead of the holes for the guide pin.
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