The FUNNY FARM Northern California

I casted up some new bodies a couple of weeks ago and have been doing a couple of modifications to the wheel base to fit different chassis. I copied the Mega G+ 69 Mustang. This is how I modify the wheel bases. Tried many different ways and this way has worked best for me because I screw up so much that its easy to fix.
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Sitting on a Super G+ chassis
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I ground out the fender wheels to fit chassis
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Then I ground out the inside around the wheel wells and rocker panel and where ever else putty will be added so the putty I'm going to add will blend in with the body.
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Ran some masking tape along the whole side of car

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Mixed up some of this finishing putty. Love this stuff. Mix as much as you need at a time and you can sand and prime in 15 minutes. The bag on the right is new style container and is easier to use and a little cheaper than the old style container on the left. The bag is around $35 and will last a long time. Got it on Amazon.
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It will stay good for over night on your palette. Like I said you can squeeze out as little as you want.
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Spread it on the inside side to cover wheel wheels and I'm adding some to the rocker panel too.
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After the tape is removed about 15 minutes or sooner.
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After grinding out wheel wells and trimming rocker panel. Then more sanding and filling until you get it to where you want it.
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Before and after. It still needs finishing but you get the idea. You can screw up until you run out of putty and I've come close
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This is a Mega G+ Camaro I'm working too to fit a 4G. The wheelbase is good just ugly wheel wells. 

Way cool Rick. Looks like all 8 lit up, little move over but you stayed in it, Freaken Awesome! It looks like a nice night.
Thank you for sharing this.

Awesome stuff Rick.

Good stuff Rick...!!! Glad to see ya back casting...thanks for the pics and how-to's....RM

Bill I thought of you when I did this How To. I remember you asking the question on the wheel wells. I didn't have no pictures to explain it at the time. I think it would survive some guardrail shots to a point ? This stuff is real tuff and durable. The key is to grind the body at a taper far enough so you have 1/2 putty and 1/2 body if that makes sense ? If you grind it to thin on your finish grind when your all done and ready for paint it will crack. If your final thickness is the same as a standard body or just a tad thicker I think you'll be good ? I very rarely have them crack while molding them for casting. They go through some heavy stress through the process sometimes. I've tried bondo and other similar fillers and this stuff is by far superior in all areas. Easy to sand it feathers nice it dries fast it's really thin and spreads nice. I use it to widen some bodies to. This is a Cougar FC I started years back. Its among a crap load of other bodies that I need to finished
3B959597-124E-486D-B01F-65C6BC552D01 by rick williamson, on Flickr

It took a while to recall my question about wheel wells. You are referring to the post with the red 68 Mustang, sizzler Cuda and 52 Chevy truck bodies, who’s wheel wells didn’t quite line up with the available chassis options.

Your idea would probably work great, since you could grind out the openings wherever works best.

Thanks!