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Post by SKR on Jan 1, 2008 18:22:41 GMT -7
I've started this thread to show how cheap modification of a stock Auto World Ultra G can improve the performance on the strip. The goal here is to make a consistent affordable weekend warrior. Mods that I have planned include adding braided pick up shoes, tire change, additional traction magnet (already comes with one), wheelie bars if needed and adding more brush tension. I will be running this car weekly in the Bracket class and will start off this Saturday in stock out of the box form. Each week I will make a modification, race the car and post times of how the car did for consistency. When all modifications are complete, I will customize the appearance with a repaint, decal combo. Kind of leaning towards chopping this mother up for a gasser stance  Here is what we're starting off with. A red 1957 Chevy Thunder Jet Ultra G from Auto World. You can pick these up for less than $15.  |
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Post by nightrider on Jan 1, 2008 22:27:04 GMT -7
C'mon get started.. I have one sitting here waiting to go in the shop for mods...already have the wheelie bars made, won't run em till it needs em..
Chris
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Post by SKR on Jan 1, 2008 23:00:43 GMT -7
One thing I would like to ask everyone who has had experience with slip on style silicone tires. Who makes a softer compound tire that will fit on RRR wheels? The RRR's tires are nice but I was wondering if there were some other choices. I'm aiming this thread for the beginer and do not want to use silicone foamies. They're pricey and the rims are ugly. S/F's do work very well though and are probably the best improvement you could make for your cars that I've experienced. Sorry Chris! This will be a slow build up. Heck, you don't need my help anyway  . Talked to Warner lately? |
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Post by nightrider on Jan 2, 2008 6:35:47 GMT -7
I found some slip on silicones somewhere on the net.. I'll do some backtracking and get the info to you. The price was around 13.00 for 10 of em or something like that. So you think? I don't need any help! I figure there is something to be learned all the time. Plus you obviously haven't been tree'd by Warner as many times as I have, because the car didn't launch or something. We won't get into the pillow laying at the line. Haven't talked to him lately, I tried to call during the Holidays but didn't get ahold of him. Later Chris Found this link on another board cgi.ebay.com/AURORA-T-JET-JL-TUFF-ONES-LOW-PROFILE-SUPER-TIRES_W0QQitemZ150199327986QQihZ005QQcategoryZ2618QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem PVT was also mentioned, I have a few sets of narrow Tjet PVT's I traded for they work well if you can stick em to the rim/wheel. |
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Post by johnbalich on Jan 2, 2008 9:55:07 GMT -7
I havent purchased Tuff ones silicones from this source, but I have bought other silicones for "weird Jack" stinson..... Do a search for............... Rocket Science slot tires. He does sell on ebay regularly as well. FrankTheRacer tires, I have not tried as yet. (the link shown above)
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Post by SKR on Jan 2, 2008 10:15:23 GMT -7
Thanks, I'll check them out. Anybody ever try gel claws?
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Post by allstarhr on Jan 2, 2008 16:00:03 GMT -7
I've bought Weird Jack's bag of rejects which work well with my track. It's running two of Glanko's 0-10 volt, 10 amp power supplies. One for each lane and both are set for 18. volts with one of Tools Unlimited cheap $3.00 multimeters. Since the voltage is fairly low and the powered section of track is only 8'-9" long (1/75th scale 1/8th mile) they work fine. Higher wheel speed and longer length may cause vibration/traction problems but we have none with this setup. Hugh number of tires in a bag o rejects and many different tire sizes. I also don't like the look of foamy's. To me if you let the looks get away from being important you might as well run without bodies or do the winged wonders the 1/24 road racers do. I just can't get into it. JMO-ANWM
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Tbolt
Pro Stock
Posts: 129
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Post by Tbolt on Jan 2, 2008 16:47:19 GMT -7
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Post by SKR on Jan 3, 2008 11:03:59 GMT -7
Thanks Tom, I'll try some.
I have bought from "Frank the Racer" from ebay. His tires work fine and are cheap $$.
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Post by SKR on Jan 7, 2008 7:35:56 GMT -7
The first race is down for this project. To my surprise I made it to the final. Of course I had some luck with other drivers red lighting or cuttin bad r/t's.
I only had the chance to run this car two times in practice. I went a 1.43 and a 1.20. Quite a bit of difference there. I figured I'd go with a 1.185 dial in the first round to play it safe.
1st round
Dial 1.185* E/T 1.2547 @ 10.52 MPH. The other driver had a very bad light so I advanced. I did notice some front end hop at the starting line.
2nd round
Dial 1.180 * E/T 1.1325 @11.86 MPH Wow! Where did that come from? Luckily the other driver red lit allowing me to advance.
3rd Round
Dial 1.130 * E/T 1.1386 @ 11.72 MPH. That was much better. I felt confident in picking my dial for the final.
Final
Dial 1.125 * E/T 1.2199 @ 11.82 MPH. Yellow, Yellow, Yellow, Green then chatter, chatter, chatter. I knew I was done then. With the other lane dialing a .458 and me a 1.125. You could here my car leave with front end hop. I must of cleaned the tires a little better this time. Looks like it's time for wheelie bars.
Our track is a timed section of 16' using 24 volts for power. The controller I used was from an old Tyco home set. The ohm rating on these is somewhere between 75 and 100. Can't remember. I used this controller to help the car launch a little softer.
Next week I"ll add wheelie bars. If I have enough time in practice and everything looks good with the first mod then I might get some times with braided pick up shoes also. I'll get some other tires ordered up this week.
If you guys have any tips that might help this project, please post them. Does anybody have any tips on getting the slop out of the rear axle? Smashing it and throwing it in the next family BBQ then getting a original tjet chassis and starting over is not the answer I'm looking for ;D. I heard super glue around the axle works. You guys ever try this?
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Post by nightrider on Jan 11, 2008 0:44:26 GMT -7
Sam Started my 57 Chevy project.. I won't have E.T.'s to swap with you, since a timing system is way down the road, ok so I am lower budget than you. ;D First thing I did, recieved a set of silifoams from Dragjet , these are mounted on Tjet wheels , trued and glued of course.. I noticed quite a drastic change in launch mode, using a standard tyco wall wart and controller, Next I tried a burnout in a cleaner .. purple power, verified the tires were true.. no bounce in the water box.. not really much change still launched well.. Next was time to lap in the gears... toothpaste was the weapon of choice, dabbed it and added lightwieght oil as soon as it bogged down. Did this till the noises went away. I noticed the slop you mentioned in the rear gear,, Old trick ,, brass bushing from brass tubing, face it anything in there would be an improvement.. I have worn tjet plates in better shape.. I left it alone at this time.. Back to the track .. seemed I had some front end lift when launching. Still not good enough. Back to the bench.. opened it up ..tweaked on the motor brushes and twisted em to the description given for fray cars. one side higher than the other.. also put some tenson up on the brushes as well. (ok they were floatin above the surface when I put the plate back down). Some very small wire I had left over from other projects was available.. this is the really small stuff from Radio shack.. don't remember the size.. but is's smaller than you find in a zip zap light system.. shunted the pickup system as close as I could without murdering the chassis with heat. back to the track. Okay,, now it is acting more like it.. Burn out is long and steady and enough rotation from the arm to kick the rear end sideways.. considerable more lift on the dry end of the water box.. Dry launch.. well..still don't need the wheelie bars, but considering the power source..she's doing well.. Since I'm by myself on this and need to compare it, I unplugged the transformer from the track taped the controllers to WOT, parked one of my tjets beside the 57. plugged in the power.. It don't beat my JL pullback tired chevelle with a new tjet that has been lapped and tuned,,, no shunts. But considering the slop in the gears.. I think it does a good job.. I'll see what I can figure out to fix the slop in the rear gear. and let you know if I come up with something... But I am really thinking a brass bushing made from tubing might be the fix if it isn't some oddball size. Now ,,this is budget build..  Chris |
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Post by SKR on Jan 11, 2008 9:45:17 GMT -7
Do I sense a grudge match?  |
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Post by nightrider on Jan 11, 2008 11:35:08 GMT -7
 hmmmm... grudge match?? Sounds like the good old days of dragracing lore. Except this time I will have to have a hired gun at the control... I personally won't be able to make the event. Maybe we can get one of our members to write down the race, so it can go in the archives. Just kidding.. I'll ship it to you,, Tim can fine tune it for your track with what is already on the car. If for some reason Tim can't make the race take a volunteer from your group. Take lots of pics and a full report will have to be posted. Great Idea! Should be fun no matter the outcome! Chris
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Post by SKR on Jan 11, 2008 15:11:32 GMT -7
I do have the big advantage with having the track here. That could backfire very easily also, getting whupped up on my home turf  . You know Tim will give it an honest attempt though. We need a race date. How does Februrary 23rd sound? Tim should be here for our series we're having. |
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Post by SKR on Jan 11, 2008 16:09:25 GMT -7
Here are some pics of the wheelie bars I made. I wanted to make these ones as realsitic as posiible. There is a "How To" in the tech section on making wheelie bars. I'll do a thread on how to make these ones when time is available. I ordered JelClaws on Monday and got them in the mail yesterday. Fast service. They look and feel great, can't wait to try these out Saturday.    |
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