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Post by sst1610 on Sept 2, 2007 16:41:03 GMT -7
Hello, My names Dave. I'm a dragracer from Ny. I run nhra superstreet. Basically I love anything that has to do with drag racing. I used to run 1/24th and the raceway closed down. I really miss it to say the least but have no room to set up a track. I'd like to build or buy a HO track. How long total is a HO 1/8mi vs. 1/4mi. What is a popular power source also. I have a bunch of tyco 440 cars but I see that the pancake arm cars are popular too. What do you run for controllers also. I'll prolly run a trackmate timing system, one of there lower end models. I basically want to set up a track in the garage and race with my buds, bracket and heads up. Any tips and pics would be great. Thanks alot!
Dave Parker
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Post by SKR on Sept 2, 2007 17:15:11 GMT -7
Hello Dave and welcome to the board. There are three popular sized drag strips in HO. 1/64 scale 1/4 mi. 20'.6" 1/8 mi. 10'.3" 1/87 scale 1/4 mi. 15'.17" 1/8 mi. 7'.58" 1/75 scale 1/4 mi. 17'.6" 1/8 mi. 8'.8" Our track is 15'.3". No specific reason other than we wanted the longest track possible with the space we have that allowed adequate shut down room. Our power is from two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, combined they put out 25.9 volts. We use Parma controllers. Sounds like you have a plan in place. Our favorite classes to run are brackets and index racing. Here is a link to some more info. Feel free to ask questions. Sam www.psychoslots.com/index.cgi?board=gg&action=display&thread=1176670671
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Post by SKR on Sept 2, 2007 17:16:09 GMT -7
There are pics of tracks at the bottom of the home page under track layouts.
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Post by allstarhr on Sept 2, 2007 18:15:25 GMT -7
Welcome to the hobby Dave. I found it about 4 years ago and really enjoy it. Haven't been involved in a rained out race yet! I have a 1/8th mile 1/75th scale or 8'-9" due to space limitations. We use Parma 45 ohm controllers so we don't have such a hard hit at the start and need wheelie bars for every car. We may switch in a couple years when everyone is up and running well as we're also still newbies in HO car preparation. And again we might never switch as pulling the controller trigger both consistently and quickly adds to driver inconsistency so we don't alway have the guy with the quickest reaction times win. If that were to happen we all might as well just get a practice tree. JMO Hope you guys enjoy it as much as we do down here.
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 2, 2007 18:58:05 GMT -7
Thanks for all the tips, I'm really interested in building a track. Do any of you have plans? particularly what can I use for braiding on the track. Sorry for all the questions. Also, are there any products to make the 440x cars any faster? and where can I get the nice wheels for them. Thanks again,
Dave
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Post by killer on Sept 3, 2007 9:17:02 GMT -7
Information on the building of Psycho Slots Raceway - The surface is 3/4 inch mdf board by 10 inches wide; the guide pin slots were cut on a table saw 1/16th inch wide by 3/16th inch deep. We used rebar wire that's available at your local Home Depot for our rail in the track. The slots for the rail were cut on a router table using a 1/32 cutter. We made a free standing base using 2 by 4's. The base is 42 inches high. We attached the racing surface on the top of the base making sure everything was level and straight. Then we laid rebar wire one lane at a time using liquid nails. Dry time at least one day. Hope this helps you. Chuck
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 3, 2007 10:08:32 GMT -7
Thanks, that helps alot! I hope to build a track this winter and start racing. Seems like you have alot of fun.
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Post by SKR on Sept 3, 2007 17:56:29 GMT -7
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 3, 2007 18:42:59 GMT -7
Thanks for the links, that helps alot. This week I hope to put together a price list of all the track supplies I need to start.
Dave
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Post by allstarhr on Sept 3, 2007 19:11:39 GMT -7
You might check the track for sale on psychoslots Buy, Sell, Trade section. There was a drag track for sale in Jacksonville, FL. Just a thought.
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 11, 2007 11:17:12 GMT -7
I have some other questions. I'm going to be using MDF, what would be the best paint to use on it. And secondly, how should I wire the track up? Anyone have some diagrams. I'm bad when it comes to this stuff. I'm planning on using 2 batteries and charging them before the race. Thanks
Dave
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Post by allstarhr on Sept 11, 2007 19:22:40 GMT -7
I would guess an emamel over an emamel primer so it could be cleaned easily before each race day. Mine is that over formica and I just wipe it off with a rag sprayed with WD40 to clean the rails quickly. Works great. Check this site for basic wiring. www.hoslotcarracing.com/ You only need two lanes worth and for the shutdown you short across each rail for dynamic braking. One thing I highly recommend is keeping all track power wires as far away from the TrakMate timing as possible. I had a problem with the clocks stopping at the hit of the trigger before I separated things better. Good insulation on the power wiring is a must. Sam or one of the other guys can tell you about the 12 volt batteries as I decided to use Gilanko power supplies to keep things cleaner for me. I can easily adjust the voltage and know that we do run the exact same voltage for each race night and each race. That way we also know the track records are accurate and not just a better charge that night. JMO and not the only opinion in town. Good luck putting it together. When your done and need ladder sheets or other race info just ask and I or somebody will fax/email you what you need.
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 12, 2007 4:25:46 GMT -7
Thanks, I was also thinking about using galinko power supplies on my track. I need to make a list of all the stuff from the hardware store I need so I can start racing. Winters coming soon so I better get the ball rolling. Thanks again, I'm open for any comments or suggestions.
Dave
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Post by sst1610 on Sept 15, 2007 19:42:39 GMT -7
Ok im getting a supply list all set up. My neighbor has a wood shop in his basement so he's going to do my routing and such. One question I have is, whats the measurement from rail to rail, with the guide pin slot in the middle. Thanks alot ,
Dave
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Post by allstarhr on Sept 16, 2007 5:25:35 GMT -7
Looks like the wire slot is .275" from the pin slot. Take a look at www.hoslotcarracing.com/ Then "wooden track". Scroll down and you will find everything you need to route a track. I would recommend that you space the two lanes at least 5" apart. That way you have room for the christmas tree. Either a working one or a display one. Also make sure you have at least 9" of track behind the starting line for longer cars. Those are the two items that I didn't get right with my track that I wish I had. (It's still fun.) One comment on the Galanko Power Supply. We were having trouble dialing cars in due to one car sucking power from the other at the hit. It just ment that everybody needed to allow for it. If you left first your car would go quicker than if you left second. We still had great races, just couldn't dial in very tightly. I finally decided to get the second Galanko Power Supply and we use one for each lane. What a difference! We get track voltage dialed in identical from lane to lane and additionally everyone can really tell what their car is running for a tight dial in. 12volt batteries may be cheaper but this is more accurate if that's important to you. If you use car batteries and a battery charger I recommend that you don't trust the timer on most battery chargers. I have come into the shop twice in the morning when a battery charger "stuck" on charge. The timer did not shut off and you could smell the overcooked battery acid everywhere. That makes for a very dangerous situation. I will alway wonder what would have happened if I flipped on the light switch and got a spark at the switch. I turned off the breaker at the panel and slowley opened all the garage doors and vented out the shop. This was just two times over a 14 year period, but it still could ruin your day. I wouldn't have wanted to talk to my wife about her kitchen if I had battery acid smell all over the house!
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