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Post by falcon on Feb 12, 2012 10:52:11 GMT -7
 I have original non MT 4gear chassis. I want to know WHICH mean green arm to use with the JL blue white mags. I have read / seen about three different MG arms. Bob PS I use non mt chassis as the brush springs in the MT chassis give me a migraine trying to get back together !!!!
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Post by bondoman2k on Feb 12, 2012 11:06:37 GMT -7
Hey Bob, I only know of 2 MG's. Actually, the 'best' ones would be the original, green tip green wire arms. Those ALWAYS ohm out the lowest. The American Line versions (gold wire) always seem to start at 6 and go higher, but with some searching, you can find the green wire versions at 5.5 or so. Actually, I'm STILL looking for a few of those...lol.  Best I've found is around 5.8. Altho, to be honest, I have had just as good luck using an original Tuff Ones arm in a 4 gear with those mags. Those would be red tip, green wire. They ohm out slightly higher, but I think the combination of the 4 gear chassis and gearing with those magnets just seem to work together. That's what my Doorslammer has in it now. I am building a few more DS cars, with both Tuff Ones and Mean Green arms, as well as a few with the 'blue drag' arms, to see which ones actually work better. ;D Ron (Bondo)  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 17:01:45 GMT -7
I had a problem putting a MG in the new AW 4 gear chassis. It seemed that the arm shaft was too long. The new AW chasis has a raised circle where the brushes and hole where the arm comes through the bottom. I had to ream the arm shaft hole out so the lip on the bottom of the arm would not bottom out . Helped a little. ? Bob Case |
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kbuck
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Post by kbuck on Mar 30, 2012 12:44:23 GMT -7
I was also putting a MG into the new A?W 4- gear and I saw what your talking about. Does anyone have a better solution?
KABOOM
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Post by yellerstang on Mar 30, 2012 20:09:46 GMT -7
For those who are trying to put AFX arms in the AW cars... try using an AFX gear plate with the AFX arm. I have one that fit well, but its the only one that I tried. So, maybe I got lucky, dunno...
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Post by pceng on Mar 31, 2012 7:20:24 GMT -7
Think this may have been covered in 4g T&T, not sure. Don't understand shaft being to long, would it not just potrude from plate and chassis? Have put afew MG's into new 4g's. The problem I had was getting the arm to turn freely. In my opinion chassis has a binding problem built into it. The plate and chassis have holes for armature shaft that are perpendicular (90 degrees) in both. Yet the plate and chassis bottem are not parralell (did I spell that right) with one another. Holes for armature shaft can't line up. I used a rat tail (round w/taper) jewlers file to taper the holes and this seemed to ease the problem. If I remember correctly some have had problems with spacer/retainer on shaft, but I don't remember how this is fixed. Check the tip/tircks this might all be covered.
hope this helps...........PC
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kbuck
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Post by kbuck on Mar 31, 2012 8:55:21 GMT -7
Thanks PC, I rat tailed both sides of gear plate, now it fits and turns freely. Now for a senior moment question: What is the best way to secure the pinion gear onto shaft. It does not fit tight enough. The gear is a 9 tooth that goes with the MG. Should I just put a little lock tight on it or something?
Thanks.
KABOOM
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 31, 2012 9:42:13 GMT -7
I use Black Max by Loctite. I used this on unlimited inlines never had a problem. It is great for bonding broke chassis to.
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kbuck
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Post by kbuck on Mar 31, 2012 11:30:56 GMT -7
 That's what I used and all is well. Thanks
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Post by bondoman2k on Mar 31, 2012 16:21:59 GMT -7
Thanks for that tip Eagle! Really didn't want to try to solder on a pinion as this is probly THE worst gear to try to solder. If I screw up, not only would I screw up that gear, but possibly the top plate, and worst of all, the armature!   So, THANKS very much! Now I can actually use those gears that are a litle loose! (and, I have a LOT of them...lol) Ron (Bondo) |
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kbuck
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Post by kbuck on Mar 31, 2012 16:59:10 GMT -7
Actually, I meant to say that it is a Drive gear on the armature, not the pinion gear. I am assuming the locktite is the solution for this also.
KAboom
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Post by pceng on Apr 1, 2012 7:21:46 GMT -7
Hey TUF111, saw what you were talking about with shaft. Started building 4g and had same problem. Using a tuff-ones arm, had to file chassis to get arm to spin free when chassis is assembled. Had to take down more than I thought when starting, used jewlers file between brush pockets.
Guy's just a thought on the loose gears. I'm a solder person, but have been thinking of trying "peening" (think thats the word). Using a punch of some sort to try and move some of the brass back into the hole, to tighten up the size. The gears get loose when removing or installing because the steel shaft has MOVED softer brass. Not removed.
just thinking...............PC
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Post by bondoman2k on Apr 1, 2012 8:41:30 GMT -7
Hey PC...I have tried that. Worked sometimes, and sometimes it didn't. One thing to remember is brass is a lot softer than the steel parts. So, it is very easy to 'stretch' the brass farther than it should be. If you 'stretch' the outer hole on the gear, the 'peening' will work. However, if you actually 'stretch' the inside opening (where the shaft slides thru it) of that gear, it would be pretty much impossible to bring that back. There are several punch type tools available to do this kind of thing. Basically, they're a punch with a little round 'ball' on the end. I been trying to get some xtra cash up to get some, since they would also work on axle holes and things like that. I can't remember for sure, but they are watchmaking punches or leather making punches I believe. I do have a link for them but will need to look for it. Pretty sure Harbor Freight even sells a set of those as well. Ron (Bondo) |
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Post by pceng on Apr 1, 2012 14:20:07 GMT -7
Hey Ron, Last time I tryed it worked fine. Has been awhile, and these cars traveling as they do. Solder seems the saftest way to ensure the'll stay in place. I'd hate myself if a gear poped of on the start line. I used a nail punch, large end 3/16th's maybe. Turned to point on bench grinder, cone shaped end. Layed gear on wood so point could potrude from gear. Hold gear in place and spin punch back and forth with pressure on it. Or use hammer, but "just taaap it in". Took of a gear earlier that was solderd on and it left a coat of solder inside the hole on gear. Put directly on new arm and it holds. Don't know how well this will work but I'm going to leave as such and see what happens with testing.
..........Peter
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kbuck
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Post by kbuck on Apr 1, 2012 20:24:48 GMT -7
HOO RAW,
Finally got the MG to work in the new 4 gear, after totally destroying one chassis. It seems I rat tailed a little too much out of the armature hole and created a terrible wobble. OH well, live and learn I guess. All is back in running order now. Race on!
KABOOM
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I have original non MT 4gear chassis. I want to know WHICH mean green arm to use with the JL blue white mags. I have read / seen about three different MG arms.
Best I've found is around 5.8. Altho, to be honest, I have had just as good luck using an original Tuff Ones arm in a 4 gear with those mags. Those would be red tip, green wire. They ohm out slightly higher, but I think the combination of the 4 gear chassis and gearing with those magnets just seem to work together. 
