King of Street Questions

Hey Taz, didn't want to get started here before race. Now that it's past - I'd re-check those magnets if I were you. If you recal what Matt, had said the amount of movment did not warrent shimming. Here's another reason, if there were no movment at all, if the pockets and magnets were the same size, you would have one heck of a time removing or installing the magnets. For example try putting a JL magnet in a t-jet. It will go in, with no sanding or filing, but it will be an effort.
The shimming I did, was a piece of paper to tighten up mags. It was not intended to be gaping. Nor could it be called that since no sanding of mags of filing of chassis took place. As far as I know this is the only class that does not allow shimming with non-ferous material. I really don't understand why its not going to be legal, but thats the way it is.
I think you may have missinterpretated what I was saying about parts. I was not talking about parts being different but of a surplus of the same parts. You mentioned you have 10 x-tractions. I have 2, if we were to race, each our fastest car, it could go either way. Now if we were to race again, with, lets say our parts car. I have one car to use. You have nine, or nine arms, magnets, gears sets, brushes, springs, etc. the list goes on right down to the chassis and being able to pick the best aligned. From which by mixing and matching you should be able to come up with something faster than the first cars we raced unless one of us got real lucky when attaining our cars. The more parts one has to play with, the more of an advantage he has in building something fast. This being anybody with any skill level.

Stock type classes just don't thrill me, kind of boring. Only so much you can do, and no shims is just less you can do. So he who has the most should win unless some body gets real lucky and finds one fast out of the box. Guess its that way with any kind of racing ....... lol........ even with little bitty cars.

............. PC

PCeng...............If you dont like stock then dont race stock. The rules are simple stock. I think if you shim thats a mod. There is no two same part in the world. I ran all my cars on my track for to laps and picked the fastest ones. You can have all the parts under the sun and still not win. It like that with real life cars also. You and go to the track with a stock car and someone with the same car could wipe the floor with you. Parts have nothing to do with winning. I will send all my chassis I have that can be raced and each one will run a different time. I could have 100 cars and still come out with maybe less than half as fast as the others. This class is to be fun for the people who cant make a really fast car like the other classes. I think there should be more stock classes than just the three that there is. And the rule just like these. I joined to have fun with this and get my cars to see the track. Not to hear someone cry over what is stock and who has more parts then others. Its all for FUN and thats it. Im learning the pancake style cars. This last race showed I was faster with my stock mags then with polys. Look at the test and tune for the summer nationals. I took what egale said to me and I did it. But it turns out that it went down hill. This is going to be my third race. Im sure you have more under your belt then I do. My first race I was last. Second race last. This race maybe last. No one knows how there car will do. Each host that hosts the races are different from how you pull the trigger on your control. You could be fastest in your group you race local but at on the road some where else your car could be faster or slower. Its just how they pull the trigger. Your two stock cars could win. Its just racing. Give in and stop. Parts are parts no matter how many someone has.

Im was just saying how i see it. I how ever didnt take apart any of the cars I have to test them on each of the two that I picked. I just ran them on the track and picked. The only thing I did with my cars is change the fornts of the orings to the 4 gear wheels because they are with in the rules. I learned from the summer nationals that my cars where faster with ceramic mags then the polys I put in them. It was a tip egale said from me to do. Now that I have seen the times they got slower. From the spring nationals I didnt learn how my car got slower. I went from 1/24 scale cars and inline cars to mixed of everything. I feel a part is a part no matter how many you have or where you get them from. Like you said you have 20 cars that are useless to you if you dont take the time. I have the rest from the two I picked that are useless to me. The only thing that I have done to the two I picked to race is clean the brushes up and try and get the pickup shoes to touch all the way down to the rails. Then put them back in the box. Other cars from the other races I messed with every day. I didnt even know that they made slot cars like the pancake style chassis. Inline is all I have seen till Autoworld opened up not to far from me. So I dont have as much help or info or the showing as everyone else. Blue and wood both have offered their help to me but my work doesnt let me get to meet up with them.

Hey guys im having pancake problems, i found two of my x-traction cars one's ok and the other didn't fire so i broke it down cleaned everything i soaked the brushes and springs in lighter fluid dry it an put it back together, it fired a little but i need help....anyone?

WOW ! been watching the olympics,

Hey Taz, I'm sorry if somehow I offended you I appoligize ! Started messing with pancakes along time ago, and you will find as you go that every intechangeable part has the potential to make things faster. The more parts you have the more potential you have.

Tom, your right ! well racing should be about maximizing what you have. And everything I've said is assuming everyone is going to do that. "All the parts in the world" ? Tom, buddy, the potential there is scarry ......... lol Everything you mentioned as factors certinlly are. To me shimming any magnet is just taking advantage of untaped potential. Like checking ohms for each pole on your arm or matching magnets, looking for burs on gears. Take advantage of anything you can. That's racing !

Oh Taz, almost forgot. Went home today and started messing with my 2 stock T-jets. Had one last year and got second this year just before race. Borrowed a body from a friend put slip-ons on and sent it to race. It ran .5 seconds faster than my old jet that's been driving me crazy since last years race trying to make it faster. Some reason I decided to check the ohm's on each arm, older one was 16.4, new one 16.7. The new 16.7 ran a 1.3 to the older 16.4's 1.8. Go figure right. Good match between arm and mags ? Just for grims I put the older gear plate w/arm on the newer chassis just took off thenew plate and put on the old. Instantly faster than what it was. Might have got lucky, think I have something that will give somebody a run for the money, next year that is.
Try it ! swiching plates is probably the easiest way to start building something with what you have. Pick out your fastest, take off gear plate w/arm. Try it with every other plate you have, one of the other nine might work better. You also want to use the best gear combo you can. Laping helps but will be more rewarding when starting with good gears (depth of teeth make big difference). Rip them nine down and build something fast. Pick-out a chassis by laying bare chassis on piece of glass and looking at bottem for full contact. If it's not there that chassis is warped. Use it for something else. You want a straight one to race. Then put your "selected" arm and mags and give it a try. Use everything at your disposal, and you should be happy with results. Remember you can only get one car into an "A Main" event.

QUES. - Where do we stand with the brushes right now for King of Street, is any copper good to go or no ?

............ Peter

Here ya go Sam. It's not Matt (440gtx) that's hosting this one.
Ron

Desert Run Raceway Dragfool, Race Master
Scale 1000' track (13' 2")
Shut down 4'
Track surface AW plastic track mounted on 3/4 MDF then mounted on 3/4 particle board - stand alone track
Power: new regulated power supply, 30 volts, 5 amps per lane
Track Mate Econo Timing System
The track is located inside in a climate controlled room
NTRA regulation 1000' drag racing

Here are track specs for the first race:

Mopar City Dragway
slot cars inc track
15' 2" timed
5' shutdown with dynamic braking
13.8v 10a power supply
rails are .080" dia. and .012" high
timing is by TrackMate basic system.


More info on the first Street Class race can be found in "A Look Back".
www.nitroslots.com/index.cgi?board=cdfs&action=display&thread=2167