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Post by dave632 on Sept 19, 2020 20:46:54 GMT -7
I have 3 powered sections, first middle and last. I have run many cars on both lanes and they seem to be fairly even. I used #10 gauge wire to all three from the relays and the power supplies.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2020 21:07:46 GMT -7
the sectional Max allows me to put a tap in the middle of each section ( 6 feet long each ) using the connectors and dropping down through the platform (remember I build my tracks to be portable). I like to use large flat braid traditionally used on 1/24 tracks soldered to the connectors (requires a little customizing the underside of the track) to attach to the 10 or 8 gauge wires. there is a tap at the very beginning in the "burn out" area and one just past the finish line where the powered rails stop. I have used a 4 gauge for the common and 8 gauge from the controllers, but that is over kill even for the most powerful builds .... basically unnecessary. same for the Wizzard track I currently have and the two Aurora O-Gauge plastic tracks I have built in the past removing the rails in each 6 inch section and replacing with continuous rail supplied by Wizzard early in my track building days. those plastic tracks were 8 foot long sections and I learned that such lengths are not easy to transport all the time. now that I am going to extend my Wizzard 1/8 mile to 1000 feet, I am also going to rewire the whole thing because I have obtained two identical 30 volt / 20 amp power supplies and two relays. does anyone have anything to say about a member, 'sukafish' ? please PM me anything, thank you. he has messaged me about track that he has and I read a bit about it on the sale forum. seems last he was involved here was 2015 or so. nitroslots.com/thread/771/slot-cars-dragstrips-sell-ebayI think he acquired the track in 2013? it is apparently 15 feet long. if anyone has feedback on the actual brand of track and/or the member, please PM me. thank you
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Post by dave632 on Sept 20, 2020 7:06:28 GMT -7
Sukafish is unknown to me. 4 and 8 gauge are some big wires.
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Post by AJR on Sept 20, 2020 9:53:09 GMT -7
the sectional Max allows me to put a tap in the middle of each section ( 6 feet long each ) using the connectors and dropping down through the platform (remember I build my tracks to be portable). I like to use large flat braid traditionally used on 1/24 tracks soldered to the connectors (requires a little customizing the underside of the track) to attach to the 10 or 8 gauge wires. there is a tap at the very beginning in the "burn out" area and one just past the finish line where the powered rails stop. I have used a 4 gauge for the common and 8 gauge from the controllers, but that is over kill even for the most powerful builds .... basically unnecessary. same for the Wizzard track I currently have and the two Aurora O-Gauge plastic tracks I have built in the past removing the rails in each 6 inch section and replacing with continuous rail supplied by Wizzard early in my track building days. those plastic tracks were 8 foot long sections and I learned that such lengths are not easy to transport all the time. now that I am going to extend my Wizzard 1/8 mile to 1000 feet, I am also going to rewire the whole thing because I have obtained two identical 30 volt / 20 amp power supplies and two relays. does anyone have anything to say about a member, 'sukafish' ? please PM me anything, thank you. he has messaged me about track that he has and I read a bit about it on the sale forum. seems last he was involved here was 2015 or so. nitroslots.com/thread/771/slot-cars-dragstrips-sell-ebayI think he acquired the track in 2013? it is apparently 15 feet long. if anyone has feedback on the actual brand of track and/or the member, please PM me. thank you Very good info. Al Thank you. Sukafish has been a member of the forum for quite awhile. He actively raced for the first several years I was a member and still logs in from time to time. I've always had good dealings with him.
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Post by AJR on Sept 20, 2020 9:55:16 GMT -7
Sukafish is unknown to me. 4 and 8 gauge are some big wires. I tend to agree. 10 gauge should be sufficient especially with multiple taps.
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Post by GTS on Sept 20, 2020 16:03:25 GMT -7
Although the rail on my track is continuous one piece, I chose to use 10 gauge for three taps to it.
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Post by dave632 on Sept 20, 2020 17:13:11 GMT -7
The resistance loss thru steel rails is fairly high so using 3 taps is a good idea.
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Post by AJR on Sept 20, 2020 20:22:29 GMT -7
If your having trouble with the pins try placing a shim against the rail and pin both sides of track pieces. Might get you a better connection. Sometimes the pin can be bent just a bit, it pinches better than being straight. You have a max and the pins may not take to being messed with. I added power taps on my Buddies Max by swapping the round pin for square stock brass. The wire was soldered on to the square stock pin and both sections became energized. Thanks for the tips here as well! My track has square pins which I like better than the round.
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Post by pete on Sept 21, 2020 2:43:58 GMT -7
I forgot about Max and the square pin, twenty years ago will do that.
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Post by swiftkart on Oct 31, 2020 12:43:48 GMT -7
I would like to Thank Jeff for the 2 awesome car builds he did for me, both the Outlaw Truck and Unlimited Camaro are currently at the top of the track record list at our local drag track.
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Post by AJR on Nov 1, 2020 13:30:36 GMT -7
I would like to Thank Jeff for the 2 awesome car builds he did for me, both the Outlaw Truck and Unlimited Camaro are currently at the top of the track record list at our local drag track. That's AWESOME! I am glad they are performing well for you! Thanks for the shout out!
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Post by swiftkart on Nov 1, 2020 18:14:46 GMT -7
Anytime!
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Post by AJR on Nov 27, 2020 19:49:25 GMT -7
Finally finished a loooooong overdue project. Life has gotten in the way of my slot car addiction so my customs have all but stopped. Anyway....this is a '67-68 Chevy Suburban that I started back in August. It is flawed as all of my stuff is but I'm pretty happy with the outcome. I used a new product that was recommended to me by Rick Williamson aka Hairy Canary. It is the Gloss Clearcoat from automotivetouchup.com. 5 coats were sprayed right out of the rattle can and flowed out very nice! With all the problems I have been having lately this was great. Posting one picture here and the rest in Painters Corner.
This was the basecoat for the flames.
Final main color purple and clearcoat. Thank you to Hilltop Customs for this fine casting. Decided to make this more of a street car and not clutter it up with decals.
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Post by mazda on Nov 28, 2020 1:43:50 GMT -7
Love it.
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Post by swiftkart on Nov 28, 2020 9:35:28 GMT -7
Very nice!
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