Taz, any arms can be used. Remember, just as with pancake arms, lower ohms usually mean a faster arm. In bracket racing, there are no restrictions on this kind of thing. So the speed really doesn't matter. Only thing to be concerned with is that the car runs as consistent as possible every time it goes down the track. Doesn't matter if it's faster or slower. A slower car will have a slower et dialed in. When a slower car runs against a faster one, the slower one gets to leave first. The computer figures out the differences with the start tree so that in a 'perfect' run, if both cars leave with a perfect light and both cars run exactly at the et they are dialed in at, theoretically they should reach the line at the same time. That rarely happens tho, so that is where consistency comes into play. The car that runs the closest to its dial in with the best reaction time will almost always win. You want your car to run the same et, or as close as it can, as the time that it's dialed in at. Help you out any? It can be confusing if you've never done it, but it can also be a very fun way to race once you get used to it. I know for sure this is going to get a lot more racers into this because the amount of money you put into the car doesn't matter, nor does racing faster cars, or anything like that. Ron (Bondo)
Last Edit: Oct 1, 2012 21:52:26 GMT -7 by bondoman2k
Drag Racing...Because if you can turn, you're not going fast enough!
What ohm of arms can be used? Im watching some on the ebay. They run in the 2.3 ohm range to the 5.5 I think.
As Bondoman2K has stated, it does not matter the ohm rating of the armature. If you already have an inline chassis, all you need to do is tune the way you would do any of your HO chassis and add a street or drag body to it and send it in. If you want a low ohm armature, go for it but it is not required and is of little if any advantage (in this race).
I have come up with an alternative method of applying the percentage to ETs' between rounds which I think would be more representative of how a bracket race is run. It gives owners more options, adds some risk, more flexible and gives the owner more input as to how his/her dial-in is calculated. Just thought it would be another option rather than straight lining the same percentage. I have sent details to eagleracing to examine. So racers, are you ready for 'Regressive Factoring'?
"I just figured out this bracketing thing and now this!!"
Post by Eagle Racing on Oct 13, 2012 21:14:52 GMT -7
I'm with ya pceng, I luv to race. To answer your question if it is inline motor you can race it. That means if you can get a hard drag body on a Wizard chassis you can race it. By the way that is not hard to do, have done several over the years. You want to race a angle winder, it has an inline motor knock yourself out.
could this be done with the Dragon timing system or need to go to a PC base system? we are getting close to getting started and if Bracket-style works well i dont want to have to change timing systems in the middle of everything.....