lewis
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Post by lewis on Mar 4, 2015 18:02:14 GMT -7
I really like the coms and lams that Dan uses I'm going to try to buy a couple of blanks from him. If I can then I will try to buy some beldin magnet wire from ebay and try it it might smoke but I will eventually get it rite
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 4, 2015 18:03:14 GMT -7
Actually I will text him in just a sec and see if i can I will let u know.just a min
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Post by dave632 on Mar 4, 2015 18:34:14 GMT -7
I have bought most of the stuff to do my own winding but I hate doing it so I have been buying
armatures from others. Still might give it a shot when my patience is at a high.
With me it is like doing body work something I passed on to others but I always did my own motor
building, etc. with good results.
I was always sitting in the pits drinking a soda while all my
competition were thrashing and they sure told me about it.
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 4, 2015 18:45:05 GMT -7
Lol I actually don't mind body work I grew up around it but I don't know about winding I am thinking of trying it
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Post by dave632 on Mar 4, 2015 19:30:10 GMT -7
I imagine it is what you get used to.
By all means give winding a shot.
Those Wizzard arms are pretty expensive and I don't know how well they
run, most likely OK.
Never thought there was much advantage with multiple
wire arms for drag racing. Maybe they make a car handle different for road
racing but for the drags I have seen no difference with similar resistance
arms single vs multiple.
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 4, 2015 21:13:30 GMT -7
From what I have read I think the only add more torque. I dident buy wizzard arms my were custom wound by Dan at viper
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Post by dave632 on Mar 4, 2015 21:21:48 GMT -7
What does Dan charge for his arms?
I was thinking of modifying some chassis that use the standard
brush setup which runs parallel to the track.
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 4, 2015 23:17:37 GMT -7
Custom winds are $40 still cheaper than wizzard and Slottech and seem to be better built than the Wizzard arms dont know about slottech I only have slottechs green wire but it is a good arm. Dans are real nice looking arms i have a pic of one under general thread an under velochamp2 lexan body.
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Post by pceng on Mar 18, 2015 16:29:45 GMT -7
Hey Lewis,
Saw post in other thread......... if planning on using wire again, I always use a pencil to wind wire onto. Pencils are close in circumference to that of the stacks on inlines and pancakes. I tape the end of wire onto pencil and use it to unwind. At the same time wire is wound onto pencil. Helps to remove unwanted bends in the wire as you near the end of unwinding.
To be honest it works better for pancakes. Inlines can be a pain. Bundles of wire often overlap one another. Look for stack last wound to start unwinding. Removing comm assembly will make unwinding easier.
.......... Peter
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 18, 2015 19:12:36 GMT -7
I found the last wound and unwound from there but I broke the wire a few times the com had solider on it so it broke at every tab. Is the wire one solid peace for the whole arm and when you end one tab do you go over the tab straight into the next section. When last wrap is complete how do you finish at the tab does it solider straight back to the tab you start at. I'm kinda confused since I broke the wire. I could ohm on two com plates but the third was dead.
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Post by pceng on Mar 18, 2015 20:28:21 GMT -7
Not sure if wire is continuous...... looks as it might be. When winding on blank I prefer a continuous wind. Others prefer 3 wires. Either way will work.
When stripping inline, I cut all wires loose. Before pulling comm I use x-acto to open tabs to about 45°. Carefully ! Don't want to cut or break off tab.
Reusing wire each stack is usually seperate pieces. When dbl winding first two stacks are wound. Then last bundle unwound from pencil doubled and wound back on pencil is then used for last.stack.
I've never reused wire from a 1/64 inline arm. I have unwound larger scale motors to reuse wire on 1/64 arms. Have reused wire on pancakes to dbl.
......... Peter
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Post by yellerstang on Mar 19, 2015 6:41:51 GMT -7
Hey Lewis, Saw post in other thread......... if planning on using wire again, I always use a pencil to wind wire onto. Pencils are close in circumference to that of the stacks on inlines and pancakes. I tape the end of wire onto pencil and use it to unwind. At the same time wire is wound onto pencil. Helps to remove unwanted bends in the wire as you near the end of unwinding. To be honest it works better for pancakes. Inlines can be a pain. Bundles of wire often overlap one another. Look for stack last wound to start unwinding. Removing comm assembly will make unwinding easier. .......... Peter Here is a great tool for the job. www.tcoflyfishing.com/TCO_Fly_Fishing_L5_Product.cfm?productid=8030 Its a bobbin for tying flies. I measure my wire out to a given length. I use small pieces of masking tape to hold the wire into a bare spool. Gently wind the wire onto the spool while keeping it to the one side. Then tape down the end. Do this 3 times. Keep the wires separated on the spool if possible. Use small pieces of tape to hide the tag ends and help to stop kinks. Your wire is much more neat, much less likely to get kinked, and you can keep it all separate as you wind. |
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Post by pceng on Mar 19, 2015 8:07:49 GMT -7
Hey Lewis, Saw post in other thread......... if planning on using wire again, I always use a pencil to wind wire onto. Pencils are close in circumference to that of the stacks on inlines and pancakes. I tape the end of wire onto pencil and use it to unwind. At the same time wire is wound onto pencil. Helps to remove unwanted bends in the wire as you near the end of unwinding. To be honest it works better for pancakes. Inlines can be a pain. Bundles of wire often overlap one another. Look for stack last wound to start unwinding. Removing comm assembly will make unwinding easier. .......... Peter Here is a great tool for the job. www.tcoflyfishing.com/TCO_Fly_Fishing_L5_Product.cfm?productid=8030 Its a bobbin for tying flies. I measure my wire out to a given length. I use small pieces of masking tape to hold the wire into a bare spool. Gently wind the wire onto the spool while keeping it to the one side. Then tape down the end. Do this 3 times. Keep the wires separated on the spool if possible. Use small pieces of tape to hide the tag ends and help to stop kinks. Your wire is much more neat, much less likely to get kinked, and you can keep it all separate as you wind. Trout season open yet ? Hated first week..... Dawned on me one day to use a bobbin...... so much easier to see what I was doing. Has me rewinding arms again. Also much easier to control placement of wire while wrapping. Still use pencil for unwinding....... then transfer to spool for bobbin and winding. ....... Peter |
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Post by dave632 on Mar 19, 2015 8:39:24 GMT -7
What source do you use for good quality wire, (Beldin?), and where can good quality
commutators be found? Both pancake and inline?
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lewis
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Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 19, 2015 9:24:17 GMT -7
Coms is what i need I found blanks but no coms. I was told to use the Tyco pro solider tab coms.
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