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Post by sandfly on Apr 9, 2018 18:15:25 GMT -7
rear axles are original ones.
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Post by gnome on Apr 9, 2018 18:52:27 GMT -7
What's up guys, yes mine was trying to spit the axle so i glued in a flat toothpick then wore out the ring and pinion testing and tune. Have ring and pinion ordered. It ran
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Post by ncdragracer on Apr 10, 2018 5:14:06 GMT -7
Noticed that my one of the TR3's that I am sending to the Smoky Nats started getting "notchy" in the rear, so to be safe I ordered a new axle set up for it along with a new pinion to be on the safe side. They came in yesterday so I am going to replace them tomorrow and see what happens. Always better to be safe than sorry.
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Post by dave632 on Apr 10, 2018 7:05:08 GMT -7
The higher end chassis, Viper, BSRT use a pin to secure the rear axle in to prevent the axle from popping out.
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Post by GTS on Apr 10, 2018 7:45:53 GMT -7
With trying to get a TR3 & DR1 ready for the Nats, I too have noticed the "notchy" in both. Have had them both 'breaking in' for hours and it helps some but still prevalent. It finds me wishing different gears were allowed in "stock"  . I like both these chassis a lot but find them difficult to get any consistency out of. I'm sure there must be a way though  . Haven't had any axles pop out yet, though. |
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Post by sandfly on Apr 10, 2018 13:15:14 GMT -7
The axles arn't popping out, but are very loose when clicked in, the contact with the pinion and crown wheel is very sloppy as well. depending on how cold it is tonight I will try the sleeve over the axle trick. Will let u know how I get on.
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Post by AJR on Apr 10, 2018 16:31:40 GMT -7
I have two DR-1 chassis that I have built so far. I think I know what is meant by "notchy", but I'm not 100% sure. Something that I noticed on both were the brushes catching on the edge of the comm plates which prevented them from turning smooth. I tapered the leading edge of the comm plate with an xacto knife and that took care of the issue. A ball point pen can be used to run over the edges between the comm plates as well. I have also had the axles on both chassis in and out numerous times without any problems. It looks like they could be pinned fairly easily if needed. Still working on my Super Stock so lets see how it goes for the rest of tuning. One problem I did have is the rear motor bushing lifting on the SS build. No reason for it....just all of the sudden it started doing it. I do not plan on having the motor back out so I used a small dab of super glue. Just enough to hold it in place, but not lock it down. I would like to have some type of mechanical retainer though.
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Post by GTS on Apr 10, 2018 17:38:19 GMT -7
Thanks Jeff for the comm plate tip, will have to give that some attention. I whined about the bearings and brush tubes lifting on the TR3's over at the HO forum on SCI and JLM Racing suggested a pin point of Loctite 680 on them. I did that on the TR3's and DR1's I have and haven't had any more problem with it. Accidentally got a little on a brush tube where the shoe slips over and that wasn't good. Had to clean that up really well.
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Post by ncdragracer on Apr 10, 2018 18:59:39 GMT -7
The higher end chassis, Viper, BSRT use a pin to secure the rear axle in to prevent the axle from popping out. With looking at those. I was thinking of trying to kill two birds with one stone..... |
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Post by kiwidave on Apr 10, 2018 23:35:33 GMT -7
ncdragracer, got a bigger pic of your avatar? Sandfly and Mustangpaul visted the Davecave in the weekend and I finally got to run one of my DR1's. Same "notchy" feel in the drive train. After probably 20 laps it had improved by a 10th. A little more playing around and it was running some good numbers at 18 volts. Will have a play around again this weekend. See if I can slap the "notchy"out of it??? Super Stock Modern Funny Car class maybe?  |
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Post by gnome on Apr 11, 2018 4:16:49 GMT -7
Haven't glued the brush tube but i did glue the arm bushings and it made great improvement in et and consistency my car ran 3 ,4 teens before the car slipped from my fingers on warm up and took out 3 teeth on the crown. Still runs 440 to 460 with the bad gear on 19 volts in the 1/8TH
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Post by sandfly on Apr 11, 2018 13:11:18 GMT -7
MMMM axles are bigger as suggested so my re sleeve wont work, next trick is to possibly see if I can close the gap to tighten the axles ??. Ran the car again last night with a wheelie bar, still lifting the front on take of, put some lead in the front but slowed it down, would a longer bar cure this issue ??.
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Post by dave632 on Apr 11, 2018 13:21:52 GMT -7
#1 Make sure the wheelie bar is only a fingernails width, or about .020, off the track surface. Yes a longer or thinner wheelie bar may soften the hit and not allow the front to come out of the groove. If you are running braid make sure the rear of it does not extend out from the chassis to much. Also to strong a pickup spring will cause problems.
Once the proper adjustments are made no weight should be needed in front except where wheelie bars are not allowed.
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Post by GTS on May 2, 2018 11:07:50 GMT -7
Don't know if anyone participates in Facebook but noticed today on the Viper Racing site that they will be offering an upgraded version of the Jag Hobbies DR1 chassis. Just passin' on info.  |
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Post by dave632 on May 2, 2018 12:05:25 GMT -7
Better motor mags and armature?
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. I like both these chassis a lot but find them difficult to get any consistency out of. I'm sure there must be a way though 
. Haven't had any axles pop out yet, though.
