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Post by ecbill on Feb 12, 2021 14:52:45 GMT -7
I've only had/have 1 of the dash 4lam 5ohm arms. It had a measurement of 4.7 ohm on 2 poles 4.8 on the last pole. To be honest it ran like crap and went up in smoke in under 10 passes at 18.5 vdc. I recently wrapped it with 11'5" of 38awg wire. Im now measuring at 5.1 ohm on all poles. I stuck it in a autoworld tjet with stock motor magnets and two traction magnets. I've ran it against stock tyco 440x2 and stock mega G and its winning by at least a foot. I'll have my timmer operating today (fingers crossed) so I'll have a better idea of what it's doing. I was excited with the result being new to winding arms. Its definitely not as hard as one thinks before doing it.just tedious and time consuming. Congratulations on a successful rewind! |
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comet
Pro Stock
Posts: 363
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Post by comet on Feb 12, 2021 16:37:43 GMT -7
Nice going Bill.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 12, 2021 16:44:33 GMT -7
Nice to hear you timing system is working well. Winding the pancakes is not to bad but tedious just like you said. I built a motor driven winder which works well on the pancakes but not so good on the inlines. I will be building one for the 4G Unlimited that will run in Jeff's race.
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Post by ecbill on Feb 12, 2021 17:05:10 GMT -7
Curious what sort of power supply you were using when the stock 4 lam smoked?
According Dan from Dash, they stopped selling them because people were burning windings and comms due to running on low amperage power supplies. He said they need to be used on high current supplies.
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Post by skillet on Feb 12, 2021 18:58:00 GMT -7
I seen that on his website Bill. I think I just got a bad one??? I ordered other arms at the same time 10 ohm and 16.2. They were all fine. I don't remember the number but after I seen smoke, two of the poles had read the same and the other was crazy high. I wonder if he could sell us armature blanks. The power i use is 10 amp 30 volt. Right now it's wired to both lanes. Been thinking about getting another so each lane is separate or at least before I try to host a race. When I first build a car I run it by itself anyway so that shouldn't have had anything to do with the arm smoking. The arm seems to be running better than expected at this point so maybe some of the wire coating got scrapped of originally when winding and thats why it burnt. No idea just know there's not a whole lot that can really be wrong besides wire or commutator.  |
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Post by ecbill on Feb 12, 2021 22:55:01 GMT -7
That certainly should be plenty of power.
Didn't think to ask about blanks but did ask if he had any bad arms or defective returns. The answer was no but will contact me if he gets some.
Figure that the 10 ohm or <5 ohm arms would be good rewind candidates since they don't fit in any of our classes.
Do you have a winder or do it all by hand?
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Post by dave632 on Feb 13, 2021 8:41:39 GMT -7
If you need used old arms with good comms and bad windings I can send you some. I have at least 50 of them. Just send me 4.00 shipping and I will send you 5 or as many as you want. Old wire would have to be stripped off.
A 10 amp supply should be enough until you start to run Unlimiteds. When I put in dual 30 amp units the Unlimited Inlines picked up almost 10 MPH. There were also some ET improvements with the 2.5s.
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Post by AJR on Feb 13, 2021 11:35:08 GMT -7
A little more power supply info in addition to what Dave just posted..... I run a 10amp 30v power supply for each lane. That is adequate for Unlimiteds but the 30amp like Dave has gives them what they want and need. My times will typically be slightly slower than Dave's but they are consistent and relative. One 10amp for both lanes tends allow the stronger car to draw the amps away from the slower car when there is not enough for both. You could add another 10amp like you have and run each lane separately and your set. Or go with the 30amp for each lane. $$ is the only issue there. I will make that upgrade at some point.
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Post by skillet on Feb 13, 2021 13:43:40 GMT -7
I made a little rig up Bill. There's some pictures of it in the winding or rewinding thread. I'm going to change it around some but it works for now.
Dave i could use a couple of those bad arms. I've been looking for a place to get commutators for us. When I contact people who sell arms and ask about comms there like I have no idea lol. How can you have no idea and sell new arms? Geeze.
I hear yha on the coin Jeff. I can hide a quick $55 on a extra 10amp 30 v going to a 30 amp is going to be a bit more.
My next spend im focusing on getting a max trax. I'll most likely ending up with 2 = 10amp 30 volt for a while. Im trying to get the track and extra power supply ordered in the next month or two. When spring hits and I start dumping money in the roadrunner in the garage my wife will probably have a heart attack lmaooooo.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 13, 2021 16:58:53 GMT -7
Let me know how many you want. I will pick out the ones with decent comms, and I have reused them with good results in the past. I find that even on hot winds the comms will hold up pretty well. 2 10 amp power supplies will work just fine until you start to try to run very low ohm arms, ex: sub 1 ohm, then the difference starts to show, cars will be fast but the 30s added about 10 MPH. Wait until you start spending money on the Road Runner. It will make these cars look like a great bargain. It was costing me 1000.00 a month to run the Beretta, in the early 2000s, once a month and one test and tune. That included broken parts, fuel, transportation and entry fees. Better break it to your wife gently. Mine was fairly understanding knowing I was a little crazy to begin with. I won about 3600 when I ran the full season but you figure that the full season was about 7 months long I was coming out well behind. All that's left from those days:  Old trophy |
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Post by skillet on Feb 13, 2021 23:32:57 GMT -7
Ha ha no kidding Dave. Mine's pretty understanding for the most part. Sometimes I'm the one who catches myself saying I'm about to do what??? She's like go ahead lmao. If she only knew what was next.
5 of those arms would be greatly appreciated Dave. I know some others were looking for bad arms to practice on. Gnome and Bill I believe.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 14, 2021 16:02:18 GMT -7
OK, will contact them also.
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Post by swiftkart on Feb 20, 2021 17:28:25 GMT -7
I was wondering since the Dash 5 ohm arms are not as fast as the mean green, why not allow just the Dash 5 ohm 4 lam arm and no other arms that read 4.2-4.4 ohm into 4G super comp as an option?
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Post by skillet on Feb 20, 2021 18:16:45 GMT -7
I believe the problem with that is that in super comp we can wind are own arms. So the bar is set at 5 ohm minimum. If I rewinded a dash arm with the same color wire say 4.8 ohm. A year or so goes by , I take stuff apart, mix it up...now I don't know wich I wound or wich is the dash.
Also im thinking they are not all bad. Maybe something on the machine messed up and they got some bad ones.
I honestly don't see why we can't wind are own arms for any class except maybe stock. I don't see why the who put the wire on the arm matters. As long as the ohm rule is met.
Half this stuff we dig through and find, someone down the road could have put wire on.
I'm actually doing some arms now. I got one bouncing from 4.9 to 5 ohm.
I'm so mad ha ha ha. I'd rather have the over 5 ohm, put it all together to just be touching under 5 geeze!!
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Post by AJR on Feb 20, 2021 19:45:50 GMT -7
I was wondering since the Dash 5 ohm arms are not as fast as the mean green, why not allow just the Dash 5 ohm 4 lam arm and no other arms that read 4.2-4.4 ohm into 4G super comp as an option? We don't want to start making exceptions for different motors, parts, etc. The DASH arms are potentially slower than mean greens. But that one guy that knows how to get the power out of them has an advantage. If the DASH arm is 5ohm or above it is legal, but not below. Maybe it makes a difference...maybe it doesn't...maybe on this track it does...but on this one it doesn't. That's why we just draw the line at 5ohms. |
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