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Post by lasthobbypromise on Sept 26, 2021 17:56:40 GMT -7
Dang!! Where am I gonna get that extra 5 feet?  Crap gonna have to figure out some math formula to figure out what the ET would be at 15 feet. Thanks wbj! |
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Post by skillet on Sept 26, 2021 19:23:28 GMT -7
Will run 1/8 mile
If you build it we will race :-)
If you want to compare when your looking around in here look at the 660ft times. That will be the 1/8 mile reading...
What I think would help you most is if you had a set test car. You can start joining in on the races, when you send your cars ask the race master if they would have time to make a couple passes with your test car. If they have time great...send your test cars get an ET from that track. Compare it to what it ran at your track. Next race same thing until you build up some data.
You will find that test car will run differently everywhere. Some close but different. The good thing of the test car is you don't go tearing it apart until it's made its round so you can compare some data from everywhere.
Yes there's always something to throw off test subjects. Power service off the pole from place to place many things I can think to throw a wrench in the program, but in the end it still helps.
I'm saying this because just looking and grabbing an ET from a thread in here to shoot for could send you down an aggravating path :-)
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Post by dave632 on Sept 27, 2021 10:00:14 GMT -7
Look at some of my events. I show all the incremental times in qualifying, including 660' or 1/8th mile. I would get your car to run as quickly as it can at 14 volts but tuning it at 18 or 20 would be OK. Some cars react better to the higher voltage than others. In general however a car that is competitive at 14 V will also be competitive at 20V, traction starts to become more of a problem as voltage goes up.
I run almost all my races at 20 volts, 1000' scale 1/64 or 15.5', from T jet stock to inline unlimited. It saves me from forgetting to switch the voltage between classes and having to rerun a race. Nothing wrong with 1/8th mile racing, that's what I did in full size most of the time.
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Sept 27, 2021 10:50:06 GMT -7
You guys are amazing!! Wish y'all were close so we could have a (coffee, beer, bourbon, insert favorite drink)  Gonna spend more time w/these two posts when I am not busy w/to do list, but had to stop and acknowledge that I appreciate the help. |
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Post by crazynski on Sept 27, 2021 11:41:32 GMT -7
May I just come over for the drinks, and to learn more?
Slurpy for me thanks. Is it very far from Toronto, Canada?
This is good information for anyone that might want to upgrade. *raises his hand*
Cheers,
Ken
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Post by dave632 on Sept 27, 2021 13:43:05 GMT -7
My strongest drink is Lemonade, have not touched Alcohol for over 45 years, never smoked either. My drug of choice is drag racing.. Besides going sideways at 100+ it was much safer.. Besides that it would be great if some of us could get together. Seems like most of us live 1000 miles apart. |
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Post by dave632 on Sept 27, 2021 13:56:17 GMT -7
Here is an example of the time sheets that come out of my system. This was Inline Super Stock qualifying. Notice it includes 660' times.  Super Stock #2 |
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Post by dynomike on Sept 27, 2021 14:20:18 GMT -7
Dave, it appears that one lane is triggering way early at the 660.
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Post by dynomike on Sept 27, 2021 14:56:35 GMT -7
A while back I ran 10 different cars at 20 volts. I found that you could multiply the 660 ft time by somewhere between 1.39 and 1.42 and get a ball park 1000 ft time 80% of the time.
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Post by dynomike on Sept 27, 2021 14:59:09 GMT -7
The above times were on AW track with DRC timing.
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Post by dave632 on Sept 28, 2021 7:10:31 GMT -7
You are right Mike, one lane is giving strange 660' times on that readout.
My adjustment is 1.57 to calculate 1/8th mile to 1/4. This does fairly well but it
does not account for how well the car accelerating on the last half of the track and
there is a + - 5% error factor.
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Oct 1, 2021 9:41:18 GMT -7
Hello LHP, Some of us have only been around for a few months. The first few lessons for me were what T-jet tools to buy? I was only breaking/bending parts without them. Starting from the top row left. 1) RT HO wheel press (on). 2) RT HO top plate gear press (on). 3) RT HO idler post expander. 4) RT HO top plate gear press (off) The gold thing is an axle/top plate hole peening tool from Wizzard High Performance. The purple thing is a Lucky Bob's wheel press (off) View AttachmentYou're in good hands with Skillet guiding you. He helped me very much. Thanks again, Sam! Ken Better? ![]()  ![]() |
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Post by crazynski on Oct 1, 2021 9:45:36 GMT -7
Lol! Amazing! Nicely done, Steve.  The first time you use the RT HO gear press, you'll wonder "why would anyone do this any other way?" |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 1, 2021 9:54:34 GMT -7
WOW, you got the whole lot
good on you
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Post by dave632 on Oct 1, 2021 12:56:20 GMT -7
It is much harder to do the job without proper tools.
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Crap gonna have to figure out some math formula to figure out what the ET would be at 15 feet. Thanks wbj! 
Gonna spend more time w/these two posts when I am not busy w/to do list, but had to stop and acknowledge that I appreciate the help. 
