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Post by dave632 on Jan 3, 2024 11:10:45 GMT -7
Put the dragster chassis and bodies I received from the Christmas race together for some test passes.
Right out of the box passes with only basic oil saw some .85-.89 runs with speeds in the 14 MPH range.
The pickups were only hitting on the front section, so I worked on them some. Ran about 10 passes with
both chassis picking up performance. After a couple of runs both cars hit almost identical times of .841 to
a .842 with MPH in the 15.4-15.6 range.
A little more work on the pickups and more break in runs saw one of them run a .796 @ 17.26 vs a .831 @
16.92. Respectable for out of the box cars.
I noticed that these chassis came with separate brush tubes that can be installed that are adjustable
for brush tension. A nice addition even if you don't use them.
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Post by skillet on Jan 3, 2024 23:12:12 GMT -7
To be honest I thought those adjustable brush barrels were going to be in the chassis but I guess they just put them in the chassis box. I suggest as soon as you pull the armature the first time , put those adjustable barrels in. If you pull the barrels out a few times you can wear those finger holders out. Put the adjustable and they don't have to come out any more.
Your right in my findings of out of the box also. I do find it hard to get down the track without a wheelie bar with the DR1 in original form.
I'd probably say without shunts or braid, 75 percent of your tune time is in those shoes. Also something to note, on jag products how ever they stamp the shoe it leaves a small dimple on the contact patch. I think that possibly causes an ark in the shoe ? Maybe my imagination but I spend some time there pressing with pliers or something handy to flatten that out.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 4, 2024 12:03:33 GMT -7
I had some trouble with wheelies also. Seems like wheelie bars will be necessary.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Jan 4, 2024 16:15:33 GMT -7
No rules have been set for this class yet, correct? Last I read they were still being ironed out.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 4, 2024 19:49:30 GMT -7
I will check with JJ and discuss some rules.
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Post by pennywize619 on Jan 4, 2024 19:53:14 GMT -7
They have class rules for the dr1 under the rules tab.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 4, 2024 19:58:11 GMT -7
Thanks, I will take a look.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 5, 2024 9:14:36 GMT -7
Here are the current NTRA rules. nitroslots.com/page/ntra-rulesDR-1 dragsters are allowed .610 rear tires, all other rules are similar to inline. If we go with stock rules, nothing can be changed. No changing gears, magnets, armatures etc. Let us know what your thoughts are! |
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Post by ecbill on Jan 5, 2024 18:23:51 GMT -7
Super Stock would be a good choice. Gives us the ability to change out the stock gears. DR1 electrical system is a weak spot. Ability to use braid and shunts would be a plus.
Questions:
Will adjustable brush tubes be legal in both classes?
Looks like pick up magnets are legal in either class, but use of them will restrict the use of a wheelie bar. Am I reading that right?
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Post by dave632 on Jan 5, 2024 18:52:39 GMT -7
NTRA stock/SS DR1 indicates wheelie bars are OK as long as you are not using pickup magnets.
I have tried pickup magnets with little success. The adjustable brushes come with the chassis, for SS I would personally allow them if it were my race, but not for stock. Could run 2 classes, but that's up to the racemaster.
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Post by skillet on Jan 5, 2024 19:47:13 GMT -7
Just a heads up incase anyone orders a dr1... when I ordered ours I asked for the adjustable brush barrels... if you order a chassis they will not come with it. You have to get them separately under hop up parts on jag site.
PennyWize is running these first so will wait for him to chime in. I like the ss class for our dragsters myself.
As far as the adjustable brush barrels, they have no advantage in the jag chassis platform on tuning. They just make life easy when you take the chassis apart, and save wear on those finger tab holders... the reason I say they have no advantage is because you can adjust the non adjustable. You can press the barrels in towards the arm and they will hold in the finger tabs. I can definitely achieve the same adjustment needed from non adjustable to the adjustable.
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Post by skillet on Jan 5, 2024 19:52:37 GMT -7
Correct Bill either wheelie bar or pickup shoe magnet. Not both...
I order some pu magnets to try but I'm thinking wheelie bar is the way.
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Post by pete on Jan 5, 2024 20:08:59 GMT -7
The adjustable barrels should be allowed both classes. The chassis weak points are well established, allowing that modification will help to make them stand up better. Sam gave a perfect reason, it won't change performance, strictly addressing the issue of the holding tabs being weak.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 6, 2024 9:59:39 GMT -7
Good information, I have not run to many DRs so this info is needed.
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Post by ecbill on Jan 6, 2024 15:36:11 GMT -7
The AW unpainted dragsters can be a bit of a challenge to disassemble. The black parts come off fairly easy. Just grind off the melted areas.
The canopy is glued on and there are 2 tabs on each side, going into the body. Score along the edges with a sharp exacto. Have not found a way to successfully remove the driver/interior.
Next challenge is to remove the belly. If you get a small flat blade screwdriver under the rear, you can carefully pry your way forward. When you get near the front, pull the wheels & axle. If you’re lucky, they weren’t too heavy with the glue in the front post and it will pop out. Lucky 50/50 so far.
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