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Post by dave632 on Dec 4, 2014 21:54:25 GMT -7
No controllers, momentary contact buttons, full power immediately and no problems with controller burnout or heat.
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Dec 4, 2014 22:32:28 GMT -7
I have a set of those I never used, but maybe it's time.
At least for testing my car for Tennessee. 
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Post by pceng on Dec 5, 2014 12:27:04 GMT -7
Bodies are on N2 & outlaw inline.......... have to come up with mags for x-trac 3.2 ohm........... plenty of time to play with another N2.
Chassis already built became first N2........ curious about this one. Life-like M chassis w/ 3ohm arm & LL T motor mags shunted from pick-ups to brush barrels. Did this years ago, see now the same is being sold for around $60.-. Sorry not same never put traction mags in mine. Makes a sound like nothing else.
....... Peter
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Post by dave632 on Dec 5, 2014 14:06:33 GMT -7
My inlines are going to be BSRT. Their chassis are not that expensive but when you add all the other stuff it boosts the price quite a bit.
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Post by pceng on Dec 5, 2014 15:12:31 GMT -7
The rules for the N2 - P/M-P/S allow for any chassis. Hopefully this is an attraction. It has been for bracket races in the past. Plus your doing brackets..........
BSRT, chassis are not cheap..... the reason I mentioned the cost of LL - M chassis with same set-up now being sold was to make others aware it does exist (lucky bobs - M-tech near top).
My version has no seperate traction magnets. If all was purchased new to construct....... parts would be about $16.- plus cost of car. Life-like M chassis are probably around $20.- maybe less. Have not looked at them for some time. Doug, and I got around 70 cars in a lot sale about 5 years ago. Most were Life-like so my playing with them was pretty much instant.
I'll post pic soon........ very easy to make. Can't wait to see how it compares with other builds. Just have to wait til January to find out.
......... Peter
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Post by dave632 on Dec 5, 2014 19:14:56 GMT -7
With all the good stuff BSRT chassis run close to 100, the very stiff chassis is only 10.00 by itself.
Box arrived today with all the goodies for the inline builds. Looking forward to building cars, of course I forgot one part, will have to pirate it off another car.
Should be contenders in the inline outlaw.
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Post by pceng on Dec 9, 2014 18:07:49 GMT -7
T-jet is giving me problems......... don't seem to be able to get enough pressure from brush contacts. Was working before clean-up.
Might go with something different like 3.2 with polys. Have chassis I put poly Magna-traction mags into. Drop mag style.
...... Peter
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Post by dave632 on Dec 11, 2014 14:00:27 GMT -7
My hot pancake winds should be here soon, have poly and Neo magnets for them. Should be interesting trying to get the power to the ground. I have some small Neo traction magnets for the Jets and AFX cars. They along with wheelie bars will surely be needed.
TRACK NOTE: RAIL HEIGHT IS .010-.011 ON MY TRACK VS .011-.012 FOR A STANDARD AW TRACK. So this should not require much adjusting from regular HO track.
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Post by mike11422 on Dec 11, 2014 15:50:41 GMT -7
Any of you guys running brass gears for the unlimited inlines?
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Post by pceng on Dec 11, 2014 19:41:17 GMT -7
Any of you guys running brass gears for the unlimited inlines? Mike, Using aftermarket plastic....... had a brass pinion chew itself up on delrin crown (light grey hope I got that right). Had to go to steel pinion. But that was road car, different thing. Don't think gears will be problem if spaced right. Took a 34g arm and mags from road car & put in Storm chassis. Figure traction mag are big....... added Bigfoot brushes. Don't really know what to expect from it. Guess how extreme you go will make a difference. If you don't mind what are you planning ? ........ Peter |
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Post by mike11422 on Dec 12, 2014 3:40:04 GMT -7
I was going to run a 31 or 32g arm in BSRT chassis. Wasn't sure exactly on gear ratio but was considering using the brass in the case as you said gears going soft after a few runs.
I've heard of guys running 24/10 but not sure about that.
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Post by dave632 on Dec 12, 2014 6:59:50 GMT -7
I have not had any gear problems so far, using the light gray BSRT gears,think they are Delrin as Peter said.
I have had trouble blowing tires right off the cars, working on that.
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Post by pceng on Dec 12, 2014 8:09:24 GMT -7
24/10...... 2.4 to 1....... was also thinking of gear ratio. 8/20 or 21 , 2.5 or 2.65 to 1. Started mulling over using 9t pinion....... 10 sounds big. Found out not long ago they could even be had this size.
Wondering if size of gears makes a difference if same ratio is used. 7/21 , 8/24 , 9/27 are all 3 to 1. But is there any advantage or difference between using diifferent size gears. 10t pinion brought this to mind again
........ Peter
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Post by dave632 on Dec 12, 2014 8:26:44 GMT -7
In full size drag racing any powered rotating weight you can remove is worth about 5x what static weight removed is worth. Don't know how well this relates to the smaller cars but I do not see why it would not relate.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2014 9:48:56 GMT -7
let me say that there are a lot of things to take into account, as everyone knows.
so, change only one parameter at a time when testing for optimum output.
seems when I ran 0.182 on 17.5' at 28 volts I used a 12 tooth pinion and a 24 tooth crown on .500 wizzard silifoam tires.
apparently different size tires are now being used in that "world" of extreme HO slot racing.
also seems that 1:1 crew chiefs know how many revolutions the crank is going to make in a given straight away based on gear ratio and tire size, tire spin aside.
I'm not a mathematician, but because we don't have multiple gear transmissions this calculation should be easier to perform.
now the previous mention 12/24 is two to one.
and there are other combinations of two to one. but that one was chosen for a particular reason.
to allow the armature to do what it does best.
I am guessing that the SPUD armature was best at torque ( like old Pontiacs ).
so using that parameter to it's best attribute to come out of the hole quickly and build top RPM at the end of the measured timed distance.
also, bronze scintered(sp) crown gears chew up pinions .... all except steel.
finding 12 tooth steel pinion gears ain't easy and if you find a reasonably priced source I would be interested.
pressing them, or any steel gear, on the shaft is very tedious and must be done with extreme caution to avoid bending the shaft.
then, proper magnetic down force comes into play to stabilize this rocket which wants to head for the moon (Alice).
and even with perfect magnetic down force balance a properly set wheelie bar is absolutely necessary as the torque from these monsters will flip the car over on launch without one.
I am sharing this because it is only fair to folks who haven't been exposed.
I have been the recipient of good advice and it is only right to share same.
this is , also, in regard to inline builds only.
pancake outlaws is another discussion which might even come from one Jim Sgrignioli.
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