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Post by dave632 on Mar 4, 2020 12:19:21 GMT -7
Nicely done Gale. The 55 Chevy is one of my all time favorites. I must have about 30-40 of them in HO and I race every one of them. Nothing sits on a shelf with me
as long has it has a motor in it. Had some of them for 45 years.
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Post by AJR on Mar 4, 2020 17:45:51 GMT -7
SAWEEEEEEEET!!! Good stuff Gale! There is no cure for the casting bug. You have officially been infected. My first casting was also a '55 Chevy....lol. I still have that mold.
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Post by GTS on Mar 4, 2020 18:57:53 GMT -7
SAWEEEEEEEET!!! Good stuff Gale! There is no cure for the casting bug. You have officially been infected. My first casting was also a '55 Chevy....lol. I still have that mold. That's too funny, who'd a thunk it  . Yeah, casting is just way too much fun! I have a couple die cast torn up that will be next, hopefully. Still learning but getting results  . |
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Post by GTS on Mar 8, 2020 13:20:07 GMT -7
Hope to be casting a mold for this one later today.
I will need this body to be approximately a 1/4" shorter than it is, when all is said and done. I figured it would be easier to do the body work on a resin cast body, rather than the metal die cast body. I'm curious if you other resin casters would have done it this way or just cut the metal body and piece it back together? I'll no doubt continue as planned, just looking for input. Thanks.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Mar 8, 2020 15:20:20 GMT -7
That is how I do it. In resin much easier. Those that work in metal are trying to conserve the silicone. I respect that.
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Post by GTS on Mar 8, 2020 16:35:08 GMT -7
That is how I do it. In resin much easier. Those that work in metal are trying to conserve the silicone. I respect that. Thank you Robert! Appreciate the input! |
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Post by AJR on Mar 9, 2020 3:27:51 GMT -7
That is how I do it. In resin much easier. Those that work in metal are trying to conserve the silicone. I respect that. I agree with what Robert says here. Conserving silicone is one reason to work with the metal......time is another reason. With me it depends on how much I am doing to modify the body. I will work with the metal if it's not much, but something like the Beretta needs to be cast first. One thing......all the paint graphics on the die cast will be in your castings. I recommend sanding all of that down beforehand (maybe even a primer coat) unless it doesn't matter. Even the smallest detail will show up. It is easier to sand or remove the paint on the die cast than it is to sand to details out of the resin. |
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Post by GTS on Mar 9, 2020 5:43:52 GMT -7
That is how I do it. In resin much easier. Those that work in metal are trying to conserve the silicone. I respect that. I agree with what Robert says here. Conserving silicone is one reason to work with the metal......time is the another reason. With me it depends on how much I am doing to modify the body. I will work with the metal if it's not much, but something like the Beretta needs to be cast first. One thing......all the paint graphics on the die cast will be in your castings. I recommend sanding all of that down beforehand (maybe even a primer coat) unless it doesn't matter. Even the smallest detail will show up. It is easier to sand or remove the paint on the die cast than it is to sand to details out of the resin. Thank you Jeff! I wondered about that, I guess I'll be sanding the graphics out of the resin . Hopefully it won't present too much difficulty, live and learn. I'll know better next time  . Thanks again . |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2020 7:03:04 GMT -7
yep, the silicone will duplicate everything on the surface of the master. be it a speck of dust, a fingerprint or tampos on diecasts.
having a clean and green master is a must.
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Post by hilltopspeedway on Mar 9, 2020 15:09:06 GMT -7
I'd recommend stripping the body, gets all the paint out of the door/hood lines. The casting will probably need to be cleaned up a bit in some places. Hot Wheels paint tends to cover up a lot that you don't notice. Prime your body, then you can see what ya got...As stated, the resin bodies will look no better than the master...Good luck, RM
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Post by GTS on Mar 9, 2020 18:27:53 GMT -7
Thanks for the tips guys! I never thought about stripping the paint  . I'll be givin' that a go on the next one. Thanks again! |
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Post by GTS on Mar 10, 2020 15:09:59 GMT -7
Well, here's the first casting from that mold. The tampo doesn't appear to be showing but I haven't washed it up yet.
I've tried really hard to clean these molds best I can but it seems I always get little specks of clay that come from some where, in the first casting. Those clay specks are not in those spots when I start the pour. All the ones after the first have been coming out without the clay specks. Is there a procedure with cleaning the mold that I need to be doing? I'm presently doing another casting that hopefully will be usable for a master when the wheel base gets shortened. Thanks in advance for any and all tips & hints . |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2020 16:34:26 GMT -7
my procedure is a little different.
I do not remove the master from the "female" (1st) half of the mold, only the clay from inside it.
then I make the "male" (2nd) half making sure there is ample mold release on the first half.
I also like to use risers through the "male" half for excess resin to escape. these are extensions of the screw posts in T-jet bodies.
after the mold has had adequate time to set up, I then remove the master and check for debris.
I haven't used vacuum or pressure pots yet.
when pouring the resin, I free pour it into the "female" half and "slosh" it around for a bit to try to coat the whole surface that will be the exterior of the cast to try to eliminate bubbles forming on the outside surface.
I then "squash" the male into the "female" and allow to set.
I will be changing some of my procedures when I start using the pots!
in any case, I think you can write off the first casting if there is debris in it.
my opinion, YMMV
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Post by AJR on Mar 11, 2020 8:05:11 GMT -7
I just do a visual and use Qtips when initially cleaning my new molds. I have also washed them in warm soapy water. But I typically do that with older molds not a brand new one. The clay specs may have been hiding in an undercut part of the mold and got flushed out during the pour??
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Post by GTS on Mar 11, 2020 9:41:59 GMT -7
Thanks guys, will try to be more diligent with the cleaning procedure . |
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. I'll be givin' that a go on the next one. Thanks again!