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Post by GTS on Mar 16, 2020 16:30:27 GMT -7
Thanks guys, you're way too kind . If one looks closely at the photos you'll know what I mean . In fact, that's become one of my main tools now for working on this type of thing. I can see things in the photos that I never see even when using a magnifier while I'm working on it. So I just snap photos, look 'em over real good after loading them on the computer and try to fix accordingly. Works great for me .
On another note; I sprayed this body with Testors spray enamel primer and I would like to safely strip the paint. When I was younger, I would use ammonia to reclaim large plastic sign panels, worked great. What is safe to use on the resin body's?
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Post by hilltopspeedway on Mar 17, 2020 12:30:27 GMT -7
I'd recommend Purple Power for stripping a resin body... Scalecoat ll will soften the body. For a quick method, I pour lacquer thinner in a tub, place the body on a stick or mount and swish back and forth in the thinner. As soon as the paint is gone, I rinse with water, then just let dry, and not touch the body. I usually paint with lacquer, but it should strip the enamel...Hope this helps as opinions will vary...RM
I'd recommend Purple Power for stripping a resin body... Scalecoat ll will soften the body. For a quick method, I pour lacquer thinner in a tub, place the body on a stick or mount and swish back and forth in the thinner. As soon as the paint is gone, I rinse with water, then just let dry, and not touch the body. I usually paint with lacquer, but it should strip the enamel...Hope this helps as opinions will vary...RM P.S. not sure about ammonia with resin
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Post by GTS on Mar 17, 2020 12:56:49 GMT -7
Cool Randy, Thanks! How long should I soak in the Purple Power? I can get some at Auto Zone, they're close and online says in stock .
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Post by GTS on Mar 18, 2020 18:37:58 GMT -7
This is after a 3 hour soak, warm water and a scrub with a soft toothbrush. It's back in the tub for another soak. I'm pretty impressed with this Purple Power.
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Post by AJR on Mar 19, 2020 6:25:31 GMT -7
I used the Purple Power when I was rebuilding the motor and transmission for my truck last year, but I've never thought about using it for paint removal. Good to know. I have tried Pine Sol as suggested by others and it has worked also.
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Post by GTS on Mar 26, 2020 16:58:07 GMT -7
First 2 shortened Nash's just out of the mold. I'm jazzed!
Ready to pour the 2nd half of the mold for the glass, blower, headers and chute. Should be casting those tomorrow .
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2020 17:49:00 GMT -7
very nice and I think the proportions are just right. you have been assimilated.
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Post by GTS on Mar 27, 2020 19:54:59 GMT -7
very nice and I think the proportions are just right. you have been assimilated. Thanks Al!
Here's the glass, blower & headers tacked on. I think it turned out okay. Sure learned a lot on this project. Hope to learn some more on the next one
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Post by hairycanary on Mar 27, 2020 21:35:58 GMT -7
very nice and I think the proportions are just right. you have been assimilated. Thanks Al! Here's the glass, blower & headers tacked on. I think it turned out okay. Sure learned a lot on this project. Hope to learn some more on the next one Gale looks good. That body has so many cool possibilities ? Like I said that body is at the top of many bodies I want to do ? I want to do another competition coupe. Other possibilities I think that would be cool would be a Nostalgia type funny car, gasser, fuel altered and pro mod. Can’t wait to see more future castings. Rick
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Post by gibbo61 on Apr 3, 2020 5:19:32 GMT -7
very nice,I have about 200 diecasts laying around, if your looking for something to mold let me know.
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Post by hilltopspeedway on Apr 3, 2020 11:17:31 GMT -7
Sorry for the late response GTS... I usually just leave the body in overnight...It's also good to dunk a raw resin body in Purple Power overnight, helps get rid of the silicone from the mold... With every cast, you'll learn something new... You doing pretty dang good for your first attempt...!!!RM
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Post by GTS on Apr 3, 2020 17:10:26 GMT -7
very nice,I have about 200 diecasts laying around, if your looking for something to mold let me know. Thanks a bunch! At present I have a half dozen or more prospective casting projects that's in the planning stages. We'll see how those go .
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Post by GTS on Apr 3, 2020 17:23:32 GMT -7
Sorry for the late response GTS... I usually just leave the body in overnight...It's also good to dunk a raw resin body in Purple Power overnight, helps get rid of the silicone from the mold... With every cast, you'll learn something new... You doing pretty dang good for your first attempt...!!!RM Thanks Randy, I found that out. I left it in overnight and it worked great! I'll be doing that with the raw resin bodies too, thanks. Yeah, I really made some blunders makin' the mold for the glass. I was able to salvage the mold with an exacto knife though . Hopefully I'll learn from that one . Thanks again for all the encouragement and tips! Appreciate it!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2020 18:10:47 GMT -7
you forgot mold release on the first half? LOL, too embarrassed to mention how many times I have done that. growing pains
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Post by GTS on Apr 4, 2020 6:14:08 GMT -7
you forgot mold release on the first half? LOL, too embarrassed to mention how many times I have done that. growing pains Naw, when I made the master, I had undercut the clay a bit much and it left a flap on the first half of the mold that the second half wouldn't conform to properly, thus making the casting extremely thin in a critical area. I had to cut that flap out with the exacto, which was less than ideal but better than making a new mold .
And yes, I have forgotten mold release a couple times but that hasn't caused any problems yet for me. Well, other than the small stress level of wondering if I had just permanently glued my molds together .
Most of the recognizable problems I've had have been with setting up the master for a 2 part mold. It has definitely been a learning process trying to visualize everything that is entailed with that process. Still learning .
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