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Post by dynomike on Feb 16, 2021 6:31:36 GMT -7
Good deal Sam. Whrn i move the laptop and adruino closer to the track next week, i now know where to go if i have glitch problems. Not going to mess with it this week I have limited heat in the part of my garage where the track is and its 2 degrees outside here this morning.
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Post by ecbill on Feb 16, 2021 8:40:58 GMT -7
I'm back to having fun Al. I'm going to say I believe its working. I made a bunch of runs with the 4 gear cars I sent to the good time speedway. I made notes of the times and wich lanes they were in. Then I looked up what they ran at Good Time Speedway. Funny that the purple 57 didn't do good there and is killing the pickup truck here. Looking at the notes of the chrome truck, it looks like my track is a little slower times than GTS. Ain’t it crazy how a cars performance changes at different tracks. Sometimes a car that’s screaming at one track will be a dud at another or one that’s just running so-so really wakes up at a certain track. Traction, power supply, rail night and of course car set up play important roles. It seems that some tracks have higher magnetic attraction. Probably due to rail height, width or material. There are certain tracks that I will raise the traction magnets up higher. I seem to recall that in one instance that a car that ran well at home had its fixed traction magnets dragging the rails at another.
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Post by dave632 on Feb 16, 2021 9:23:17 GMT -7
Glad to see you have the glitch problem solved. I imagine it was giving you headaches. Yes, cars will not run the same on all tracks. My Gassers ran pretty much the same at my track and on GTSs. If 2.5 or Unlimited cars were run then you would see a difference due to the higher amp power supplies. Bill my rail height is about .002-.003 higher than standard AFX/Tyco track.
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Post by skillet on Feb 16, 2021 14:44:17 GMT -7
I'm still running mine as a direct hook up Gale. Just in all my investigation I learned the mega could go wireless. Not that I want wireless but it sure had me thinking that was part of the problem. I tried unhooked the computer from arduino and it doesn't work so there has to be a place to set the blue tooth. Im not going to look for it. I just wanted to see if it was hooking up automatically. From my understanding (which doesn't say much) I believe that Debounce us actually controls those pull ups i was looking for. What happens is when your car is not on the sensor. It is a open circuit. Being open lets run off energy inter the wire and the arduino will sometimes pick that up. By turning up Debounce us (putting power to pullup) puts a small load of power on the open side of the wire going to arduino. Not enough power to set it off but let's arduino know there is a value to look for. Well the value is higher than run of energy, so even though the arduino is still getting the run off energy its value is not high enough to set anything off. So I'd say yes gale turn it up.you can always put it back easily enough. I could be totally wrong in how I'm wording it but im going with it. Now I'm wondering what would be to high of a Debounce us. I messed around for hours after it was working and at 232 Debounce us I haven't seen a hic up. I didn't see anywhere that told me to set it there, I just randomly put in a number to see. I think I was dreaming about that purple chevy when it was at Gales last night.i can't remember if I broke it in before I sent it in. I know I had stuck new brushes in it. Maybe they weren't seated because the more I run it the better times its getting. Hoping when I get a new dragstrip our times come in a little closer. I imagine over time even if they're not close one will be able to adjust their time to another track in preparation for a race. I did give myself another question last night. As far as us staging cars for a race. Are we lining up the front nose of the car or front tire to front tire or back tire to back tire ?
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Post by skillet on Feb 16, 2021 14:53:38 GMT -7
I did figure out how I made drag race coordinator work for me. They say to open the drag race coordinator sketch in the arduino page. For what ever reason I couldn't do this. What I did was open a new file(page) to a sketch that was already there. See how it has 2 tabs. 1 of them being race coordinator. Well this still won't work. What I did was opened that first tab and back spaced everything on that screen to get rid of it. Once I erased this page with backspace everything worked. Took some doing just to figure out what i did lol.
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Post by skillet on Feb 16, 2021 14:58:15 GMT -7
I know you wanted me to talk with those guys on that other site Mike but im way to dumb to speak their language. Everytime I looked in there my head was spinning with them rewriting code. I may still break down and ask them how we do sound.
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Post by skillet on Feb 16, 2021 17:04:14 GMT -7
Gale do you have sound on yours? I can't find anything for it. Best I see is someone writing in xaml . Im not ready to even learn what that is yet.
I did ask them over there Mike. Ha ha they make everything sound so easy. If I only could speak the language ha ha ha.
I'm just going to blast the radio for now
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Post by dynomike on Feb 16, 2021 18:21:55 GMT -7
The thing i like about Dave of race coordinator is he is very quick to respond. Somewhere early on there was a wish list and a to do list. Do you have race coordinator for the road course. I have a small 4 lane road course and i plan to use race coordinator for it. It does have sound for start and lap counting i think. You only need 4 sensors and a unio.
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Post by GTS on Feb 16, 2021 19:59:45 GMT -7
I'm still running mine as a direct hook up Gale. Just in all my investigation I learned the mega could go wireless. Not that I want wireless but it sure had me thinking that was part of the problem. I tried unhooked the computer from arduino and it doesn't work so there has to be a place to set the blue tooth. Im not going to look for it. I just wanted to see if it was hooking up automatically. From my understanding (which doesn't say much) I believe that Debounce us actually controls those pull ups i was looking for. What happens is when your car is not on the sensor. It is a open circuit. Being open lets run off energy inter the wire and the arduino will sometimes pick that up. By turning up Debounce us (putting power to pullup) puts a small load of power on the open side of the wire going to arduino. Not enough power to set it off but let's arduino know there is a value to look for. Well the value is higher than run of energy, so even though the arduino is still getting the run off energy its value is not high enough to set anything off. So I'd say yes gale turn it up.you can always put it back easily enough. I could be totally wrong in how I'm wording it but im going with it. Now I'm wondering what would be to high of a Debounce us. I messed around for hours after it was working and at 232 Debounce us I haven't seen a hic up. I didn't see anywhere that told me to set it there, I just randomly put in a number to see. I think I was dreaming about that purple chevy when it was at Gales last night.i can't remember if I broke it in before I sent it in. I know I had stuck new brushes in it. Maybe they weren't seated because the more I run it the better times its getting. Hoping when I get a new dragstrip our times come in a little closer. I imagine over time even if they're not close one will be able to adjust their time to another track in preparation for a race. I did give myself another question last night. As far as us staging cars for a race. Are we lining up the front nose of the car or front tire to front tire or back tire to back tire ? Way cool on the wireless thing, Sam.
I understand your reasoning on the debounce, makes sense to me. I haven't tried it yet. Squeezed in about 20+ runs tonite and no glitches, so didn't think about the debounce. I will be giving it a try though. My cars seem to always run different on my track than they do on others. Sometimes better, sometimes not so much. I never know but always hope they will do a little better at a proxy track . As far as line up; my sensor's are in the track between the slot and the positive rail. With the sensor lights on above, I get a slight shadow so put the furthest front of the car right at the edge of the sensor. Hope that makes sense. If I get careless and put it too far forward it will red light soon as I hit the space bar.
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Post by GTS on Feb 16, 2021 20:13:17 GMT -7
Gale do you have sound on yours? I can't find anything for it. Best I see is someone writing in xaml . Im not ready to even learn what that is yet. I did ask them over there Mike. Ha ha they make everything sound so easy. If I only could speak the language ha ha ha. I'm just going to blast the radio for now No, I do not have sound thru my Arduino. I understand it can be done by writing code but I've never pursued it. Doubt I'd be able to hear it over the stereo anyway . As Mike mentioned, RC has sound. I've used it for about 15 years on my road course. It is handy for that cause when doing a frantic 10 lap heat it has been advantageous to know when it's over. It'll also tell you when doing fastest lap and a lot of other stuff that's handy when you don't have time to look at the screen. I suppose you could look at the code for that and get some ideas.
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Post by skillet on Feb 17, 2021 15:32:52 GMT -7
I am definitely adding race coordinator to my road course. I had lap counter 2000 but that computer crashed and I lost lap timer 2000.
Gale im seeing that bug you got. Looks like every 3rd race and 9th race my 660 foot times in lane 2 are wack. Right now I put a 60 foot and 660. I had 1 bad sensor so I got more coming for my 330 ft.
I moved Debounce us all over the place and it doesn't seem to fix that glitch. Almost looks like it's reading a different scale when it happens.
I asked them on the other site so if I figure it out I'll let you know.
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Post by skillet on Feb 17, 2021 15:33:46 GMT -7
As far as sound the guy said its on the to do list so no sound for now.
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Post by skillet on Feb 26, 2021 21:03:23 GMT -7
Mike what's happening i don't hear any noise over there.
Wanted to add in here, with the lights and sensors Gale suggested. I went with them and I am EXTREMELY happy. I've done the wich sensor before and tried many. These are the best that I have experienced using in construction.
From the sensor to the bottom of my light fixtures are at 37 inches. The lights have low med and high. On low the sensors work perfectly. Using these I think you could put 4 ft in-between with no problem. Maybe more...
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Post by dynomike on Feb 27, 2021 11:06:55 GMT -7
Mike what's happening i don't hear any noise over there... I only have limited heat where my track is located in my garage. It has been really cold here along with 11" of snow, so i haven't messed with the track much. It is 60 degrees here today,so i plan to get back with the program. Were you able to send a email or video to drc with a descripion of your weird numbers every so often?
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Post by skillet on Feb 27, 2021 11:33:06 GMT -7
I figured you hung a tarp out there by now around the track :-)
I can't figure out how to add the pictures on that forum. I have in the past but can't seem to now.
When you do the race it does so many races before you have to go back to the main page and press start race again. If I just go back and press start race each time it works fine, so I just do that.
When I'm set up to host a race I don't think I'll add all our names in there and set it up that way. Right now I just made racer names lane 1 and lane 2. Im happy with it like that and just keep a note book for the event. That could change later as I play around with it more and get comfortable with it. As of now I don't want to touch it since its going good.
There was something I pressed and the light wouldn't count down when I hit start. If that happens it looks like the program is not working.
If you have trouble once your hooked up i believe I can go back and figure out what it was I pressed.
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