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Post by SKR on Dec 17, 2010 6:19:26 GMT -7
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Post by rickvoegelin on Dec 17, 2010 8:54:51 GMT -7
Hey Bondo, both of my gassers are running the Afx green wire arms. Actually the mean green started with the Afx's (non-magnatractions). Before the MG the tuff-ones arms (red pole/green wire) were the hot arms. They actually put some of the tuffy arms in some of the early Afx's. Later in the Afx run they switched over to the red arm/red wire. That is the arm that carried over to the magnatractions. Good info, Matt. Thanks, RV |
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Post by sjracer on Dec 17, 2010 19:10:31 GMT -7
Perhaps I wrong about the mean green being stock but I don't think so. From all of the people I know who hand wind arms "mean green" connotates gold wire/green tip and that combination was never used by Aurora. If you'd like I'll email Alan Galinko at ag&g hobbies and ask him. More important I glad to see that there a readily available supply. But my question is the same should we emphasize that particular wire combination for an arm or just an arm that can ohm no lower than a 5.0. I also have one or two gold wire/red tip that ohm around a 6.0 from what I've been told they called that the "cheater" arm and some of the green on green have run great for me in years past.
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Post by sjracer on Dec 17, 2010 19:19:05 GMT -7
As far as a "Door Slammer" class just let me know the spec and I'll definitely build one. My question is will parts ne interchangeable between the different chassis(es)? The AW have much better magnets and and if you're allowed to change their arm I feel you should be allowed to change the magnets in an Original AFX four gear.
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Post by bondoman2k on Dec 17, 2010 20:17:00 GMT -7
Hmmm...ok. Looks like I need to talk to Jag Hobbies, which is where I got these arms. Guess I didn't look close when I got them Wednesday. I was told these are original, NOS Aurora, Mean Green arms. They are brand new, never used, and you can tell that. They are definitely original AFX gearplates, but the arm is green tipped, GOLD wire. So, do I have repros? Or what? I haven't put the ohm meter on them as of yet, really not all that worried whether they are 'original' or reproductions anyway. Just want to be sure if THEY know what they're selling.  BTW, I DO have one of those Tuff One arms here too. Red tipped, green wire, with matched poles, as well as a balanced Blue Drag arm, the comm has been polished, and all the poles match (tested those myself). So should I get an 'original' 4 gear car and put that Blue arm in it? Or is there a magnet and gearing combo that works good with that arm in a 'standard' Tjet chassis?  Just trying to see if there is a 'class' that we already have or possibly a new one that I might be able to use those arms in. Don't wanna see them sit around and 'rust'! LOL O yea, btw...sorry for gettin' off track in this thread. ;D Ron (Bondo)  Lonestar Racing and Resins |
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Post by bondoman2k on Dec 17, 2010 20:33:01 GMT -7
OK, nevermind my above question on the Mean Green. I think I figured it out. Got to thinking that Sam posted this Arm ID Page here before, so I searched for it. So, for SJ, and anyone else here wondering which arm is which in the 'original' older cars, here ya go. GREAT site for info, with pics, and even gives a lot of other ideas like arm/magnet combos, arm/ gearing, etc. Check it out, and save it somewhere so you guys can go back to it when ya need to (I had it saved, but that was before I had to get this new 'puter ) slotmonsters.com/slot-car-afx-magna-traction-pancake-motor-armatures.ashx Later! Ron (Bondo) Lonestar Racing and Resins |
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Post by SKR on Dec 18, 2010 6:36:12 GMT -7
Here is how I would see the Slammer class. Basically the same rules as Gasser but on a 4 Gear chassis.
Door Slammer 4 Gear Chassis
Minimum weight: TBD
Armatures: 5 Ohm Minimum. No Rewind, Dewinding. Balancing and Polishing allowed.
Magnets: Ceramic grade onlly
Wheels/Tires: Silly foams allowed. Tires must be black.
Electrical: Unrestricted. Braids and shunts are allowed
Chassis: AW and Aurora are legal. Chassis may be cut and lighten. Motor Magnet area may be modified. Wheelie bars allowed.
Traction magnets: Only 2 allowed
Gears: Unrestricted
Body: Resin, Plastic only. No Lexan bodies. Wings, hood scoops etc.. may be made out of styrene, balsa or lexan.
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Post by kdog on Dec 18, 2010 7:32:47 GMT -7
I think you nailed it Sam I like that set up, and I think this can be built for as little as. $30. including an Auto World Pro Stock car. On that subject I received a notification from UPS that my John and Ashley Force cars had shipped with a projected delivery of Dec. 23 I'll be spending Christmas with Ashley ;D ;D ;D ;D....and I guess John can hang around as well  |
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Post by bondoman2k on Dec 18, 2010 7:42:40 GMT -7
 I LIKE it! Should be VERY interesting to see the different combinations of bodies that we all can come up with! ;D And that 'extra' gear on the top, just might make a few guys have to 'think' about torque and how to gear these things!! ;D Ron (Bondo) Lonestar Racing and Resins
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Post by ninjatek on Dec 18, 2010 9:14:41 GMT -7
Looks good, Sam. I'll be spending Christmas with Ashley ;D ;D ;D ;D....and I guess John can hang around as well Kevin, let us know how she runs . . . I talking about the car. |
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Post by TGM2054 on Dec 18, 2010 10:04:59 GMT -7
I like Sams idea. Just found an old AFX 4 gear chassis and body ( a Rolls Royce) in an old box of parts my cousin gave me probably..... well lets just say it was back in the day. Looks like somebody tried to trim the rails off the top plate with a hacksaw (pretty ugly) but it's got a red arm with red windings. Does that sound right? In the same box there was a mean green but the lams are gone off it anybody know if anything can be done with it or should i just toss it?
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Post by sjracer on Dec 18, 2010 10:24:29 GMT -7
Judging from your arm w/o seeing most likely you have an original 4 gear magnatraction chassis which came with red wire/red lam or gold wire/red lam. If the green arm you speak of has no paint on the sides it could be lanced that's one way some peolpe balance them.
As far as the specs thy sound good to me, I'm just not clear what body style you are calling a door slammer or does the body not matter?
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Post by SKR on Dec 18, 2010 10:34:05 GMT -7
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Post by 440gtx on Dec 18, 2010 10:39:50 GMT -7
I LIKE it! Should be VERY interesting to see the different combinations of bodies that we all can come up with! ;D And that 'extra' gear on the top, just might make a few guys have to 'think' about torque and how to gear these things!! ;D Ron (Bondo) Lonestar Racing and Resins I have read a few posts that talk about re-gearing the 4-gear chassis. Please, if someone knows how to do this, would you explain the process? I don't know of any way to do this other than changing the rear tire height. thanks Matt |
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L_Brown
Pro Stock
Larry Brown - North Texas
Posts: 347
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Post by L_Brown on Dec 18, 2010 11:12:07 GMT -7
Here is how I would see the Slammer class. Basically the same rules as Gasser but on a 4 Gear chassis. Door Slammer 4 Gear ChassisMinimum weight: TBD Armatures: 5 Ohm Minimum. No Rewind, Dewinding. Balancing and Polishing allowed. Magnets: Ceramic grade onlly Wheels/Tires: Silly foams allowed. Tires must be black. Electrical: Unrestricted. Braids and shunts are allowed Chassis: AW and Aurora are legal. Chassis may be cut and lighten. Motor Magnet area may be modified. Wheelie bars allowed. Traction magnets: Only 2 allowed Gears: Unrestricted Body: Resin, Plastic only. No Lexan bodies. Wings, hood scoops etc.. may be made out of styrene, balsa or lexan. Sounds good to me....I love it |
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BTW, I DO have one of those Tuff One arms here too. Red tipped, green wire, with matched poles, as well as a balanced Blue Drag arm, the comm has been polished, and all the poles match (tested those myself). So should I get an 'original' 4 gear car and put that Blue arm in it? Or is there a magnet and gearing combo that works good with that arm in a 'standard' Tjet chassis? 
Just trying to see if there is a 'class' that we already have or possibly a new one that I might be able to use those arms in. 
