DOWN TIME

I have a stock Tyco, my quickest stocker, (I did change the gear ratio but it did not make that much difference), that runs low .6s consistently at 20 volts on my 15' 7" track. It even dipped into the .59s one time. Several other Tycos dip into the .6s often, mostly mid to high.
I will still try one of the Mega Gs.

To me stock is out of the box as is with the only thing changed is slip on silicone tires.

the Wizzard track has pins, somewhat like the joiners that Aurora used on the lock and joiner track
they bridge the rails between track sections.
so braid was soldered to some of the pins and little slots were cut into the track at the junctions for the braid to hang under the track.
the braid is then soldered to the 4 or 8 gauge Monster Speaker wire.
on Hanks track there are power taps at the very beginning of the track, 8 feet, 16 feet and just past the finish line at 24 feet. then commences the steel shut down.
we have made the positive the common and the negative goes to the individual controller stations.

on an O-Gauge aurora track i built I cut away some of the plastic from under the rails (which were replaced with continuous rail) and soldered braid to the rails and then soldered the braid to the power tap wire.

in all cases an inline fuse must be put into the common.

braid is 1/24 track braid, non-magnetic.

when I built 1/24 tracks I would have power taps 12 inches before AND after the start line, that would make it easy to replace those sections. with the launch, the track braid eventually gets burnt and is no longer smooth. so replacement is necessary.
after the 12 inch power tap from the starting line the next would be 18 inches, from that the next would be 36 inches and then every 42 inches until just after the finish line 55 feet from the start line.

there are motors that draw a tremendous amount of amperage.
amperage travels through surface molecules of a conductor.
so if have a one piece solid wire 4 gauge, he amperage is traveling only on the outer surface of the wire.
if you have many tiny(thin) strands (Monster speaker wire) there are many, many more outside surfaces of molecules for the amperage to travel on, thereby allowing much more amperage availability on the same 4 gauge wire.

most electric motors only have a large amperage draw upon starting to rotate.
but there are some that demand a lot of amperage the whole RPM scale, there fore the power taps past the timed portion finish line.

copy and paste this in a file folder for future reference.
LOL
also, Voltage runs in one direction, positive to negative ....
Amperage runs from negative to positive.

understand that most controllers, both resistance and electronic vary the voltage.
but there are some that actually vary the amperage to attain the same goal.

don't ask how I know and learned this.
LOL

Well I started to router the track. I didn't get to far and the router bit snapped. I've got another one so we'll see how that goes. At seventeen bucks a pop I might have to check into a thin kerf saw blade
instead. I also ordered some bleachers from the local hobby shop.
Hopefully with some warmer weather I can get the frame work for the other two sections put together.

personal choice.
no real reason

Now that you mention it........... been thinking about Mega G's & Super III's. Someone recently posted about putting a 6 ohm arm in a Super III (stock 9)........ Thinking of putting 3 ohm in both..... could run in N2 classes, but probably be underpowered.

Dave , if you get the chance run a 3 ohm in the Mega G...... and let us know what times you get.

....... Peter